Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Like the title suggests i have performed a single turbo conversion on my RB26 and i have seen an intake kit by Greddy (i think) on a similar conversion but cannot seem to find one for purchase anywhere. Up to this point i have been running a home made pipe [pictured below] which works fine but doesnt deliver the same aesthetic plasure. Does anyone know where i can get a flashy purpose made replacement?

intakey.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282088-rb26-single-turbo-conversion/
Share on other sites

these guys usually have them

its an official greddy part

twin sucktion kit to suit T88 from memory

http://www.jappartsspecialist.com/

also add a bend in the ducting to break the reversion in front of the AFM signal

you may find wonky idle, chuffing and other grumpiness without a bend before the AFM wire

the factory pipework has the accordian style bends for this reason

Thank you very much, and yes i am aware of the needed bend but proved that little bit too difficult for my own efforts. To be fair however i havent had a great deal of idle problems etc with the absense of a bend.

Thanks again im scouring the site for my part as we speak.

sign here

initial here

kiss me here

http://www.nengun.com/trust-greddy/suction-pipe

or

http://www.nengun.com/trust-greddy/suction-kit

the first kit is to suit 80mm AFM's such as RB20,RB25,Z32 only

it wont suit BNR32,BCNR33,BNR34 or Nismo AFM's which are 65mm

the second one is optional in 80mm or 65mm

Ah i love you .. well love may be a strong word. But you are pretty damn awesome .. Thats the one i was after!!

Signed, Initialed & ill send my assistant over with a kiss, i think you will find him very charming.

TY TY TY

Edited by ow_damnit
You don't need 2 AFM's, you could use one and parrallel up the output. Which the ECU does internally anyway.

Cheers

Gary

Hmm i wont pretend i know a lot about how my car works because i dont, i did enquire at the time if i could run both AFM's in line or just run a single AFM and the general answer i got was No, which is why i ended up with the set up i have now.

Like i said in my last post i have already ordered and paid for the greddy Y pipe so i guess ill just run with it now unless anyone can identify a significant advantage to running only 1 AFM besides space.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...