Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1249838527.jpg

Seems like a convenient spot? What's that existing line there and can I just remove it or should I run a t-peice?

Otherwise is there a better spot to do it?

Car is a 95 r33 gts25t and I'm new to turbos so a little help would be much appreciated. :rofl:

Also I know I'm gunna cop shit for this but I bought a small shift light that doubles as a digital tacho as well. Was gunna chuck it on top of my steering coloumn. Where's the best place to grab the ignition signal from?

Thanks guys :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282588-can-i-plumb-my-boost-gauge-here/
Share on other sites

That is fine to T from there. That line is for the standard boost guage in the cluster.

Tacho signal from ECU pin number 7 from memory.

Legend!

Now I just gotta be patient while I wait for my package from justjap.com :rofl:

If I don't care about the factory boost gauge in dash... Can I just run a straight line from it?

If not... where do I get the t-peice from?

Yes you can run your line straight from it & the dash boost gauge will simply no longer work...

But you should be able to get a T-piece from any decent auto-parts store.

Also on my R33 there was an unused vacuum/boost hose connection at the front of the plenum with a rubber cap over it, that's what I used for my boost controller.

The easiest way to route the vacuum hose through into the cabin from either spot is down through the front right guard with the wiring loom.

Have fun!

the autometer gauges come with a t-piece. Depending on what gauge you got it might come with one. just wait for it to turn up and see whats in the box

otherwise just plumb it straight from that line and forget about the stock gauge if you dont want it. mine's read wrong ever since i put my aftermarket boost gauge in but its there so i may as well leave it functioning haha

The easiest way to route the vacuum hose through into the cabin from either spot is down through the front right guard with the wiring loom.

I was looking at that route before when I was tidying up engine bay. might just do it

The gauge is not autometer it's their cheaper product autogauge...was sort of an impulse purchase because the price was right.

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=267&page=1

I think it's like a defi knock-off. smoked face. heard a few complaints that they're hard to read during the day but I will make my own decision.

gotta be better then my current situation of manual boost controller + no gauge..

thanks fellas, will try and keep it off my mind til the parcel arrives. then see what's in it and make my decision from there. :rofl:

Edited by dave_rb20
Also on my R33 there was an unused vacuum/boost hose connection at the front of the plenum with a rubber cap over it, that's what I used for my boost controller.

The easiest way to route the vacuum hose through into the cabin from either spot is down through the front right guard with the wiring loom.

Have fun!

On mine that front plenum connection seems to go to a charcoal cannister. Is it worth disconnecting this and bending the hose around to a U joint and reconnecting it to bypass this? Or am I wasting my time?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wanted to add some of my R33 GTST  R34 GTR wheels, 18x9 ET30 with 255/35/R18 PS4S'   BBS RE-V7 029 18x9.5 ET22 with 255/35/R18 PS4S' Needs a bit of camber   
    • Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...