Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi few questions about clutches

my clutch is dying :D

when i change gears like my gearbox crunches and when i let the clutch go slowly the car like jumps like its about to stall until i fully release it..

Anyway, when im pushin the car in like 2nd or 3rd sometime it cuts out for a half a second like i took the clutch in and out .. (is this slipping)

anyway, pretty sure i need new clutch, does anyone know where in melbourne to get it done? how much the labour will cost?

Anyone know where to buy cheap clutches?

What kind of clutch to get? im running about 180rwkw.. will exedy HD clutch be good enough? ($400 from ebaY)

would clutch cause crunching on gear shift?

i have same problem.. not sure if its my gearbox or clutch tho lol.

That would probably be your synchro's in the gearbox, Redline Shockproof Lightweight does wonders for Skyline gearboxes (well masking it anyway, when synchro's are gone the only true fix it to replace them)

I get gear crunching when changing from 1st to 2nd .... no crunch if I do it real slow. Is this in any way dangerous or likely to affect the rest of the gearbox ?

Out of interest how are synchros for an R34 GTT approx. and how many hours labour to install?

I get gear crunching when changing from 1st to 2nd .... no crunch if I do it real slow. Is this in any way dangerous or likely to affect the rest of the gearbox ?

Delaying the shift will save your 1st and 2nd gear synchros, shockproof might help in your case

As a rule of thumb, if all gears are crunching on change it is likely your clutch that is causing it (as per the gearbox not being disconnected from the crankshaft rotating it). If only one or two gears are crunching then it will likely be their individual synchros.

The crunch from 1st to 2nd (accompanied by a lack of this crunch when shifting slow) usually happens when travelling uphill, because the vehicle speed drops faster than normal when you clutch in, resulting in an RPM mismatch. Shifting slower allows the engine revs more time to drop and the synchromesh to catches the correct RPM on the way down. If this is happening on flat ground, however, then your synchros are worn or you are shifting way too fast. It will not put the rest of the gearbox in danger, only the 2nd gear synchro, however too much crunching will eventually wear down 2nd gear itself.

the 1st to 2nd crunch usually happens only when the car is cold on any type of surface .. if I shift real slow, no crunching. Any ideas how much synchros cost for a R34 GTT ? Hard to install ?

Syncrho will be on it's way out...but it's not that bad if it only happens when cold. Changing oil for a different grade can help the problem. No idea on the cost of synchros mate I'd have to call up one of our suppliers...reconditioning your box which includes replacing synchros shouldn't cost you more than a grand with a gearbox specialist, assuming you're pulling out your gearbox and dropping it off to them.

i get crunch on every gear, and its hard to put in first and reverse.

usually always get crunch no matter how fast or slow i change, although it is less noticable the slower i make the change.

so going by ur rule of thumb posted above.. its my clutch? as its crunching all gears?

also when going real slow, either parking, or going up a hill just after a hill start i get this weird.. grinding sort of noise (with clutch in taking off)

ideas?

Most likely clutch yes. Won't rule out that all your synchros are worn, but it's unlikely. Did the gears all start doing this around the same time or sort of one by one?

The grinding noise is probably your teeth meshing together incorrectly - it's possible that from all the grinding when changing into / pulling out of gear with your buggered clutch, you've worn down some teeth on 1st gear.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
    • Why are you so adamant on going M12? Why not follow Brad (GTSBoy) suggestion. You're talking moving from a 1/8" size, to a 1/2" effectively. 4 times bigger. Why skip the commonly available sizes in between? The bigger you go, the more likely you are to strip the threads out at a later date, as guaranteed, someone will put a huge spanner on the M12 and really tighten it up, and you're only in thin wall, so not a lot of threads to engage!
    • Hi. Yeah thanks. Car is already at tuners and it staying there to resolve "many" issues they do not like. So it is in a good hands. Getting a good tune on that Nistune ECU too so the car would be good. Just needs a little tune up and love.
    • Probably gonna remove manifold and turbo. I’m not sure if I can get M12 x 1.5 air tight. Could use high temp Loctite 246 or something similar, but I don’t know. Maybe it’s just best to remove everything again and weld an 1/8NPT on there instead.
×
×
  • Create New...