Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive got a r33 s2 and want to put my z32 afm and to have the car run , I know you have to go to settings then air flow but when I go there it says r33 normal and when I press next it goes to a list of voltages what am i supoosed to do the set it up run a z32 i havnt been able find my answer searching or on pauls faq

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283455-how-to-set-pfc-to-run-z32-afm/
Share on other sites

its in the FAQ - select VG30 AFM From the menu - the VG30 is the engine which uses the Z32 AFM

this will load the base ramp values for the Z32 - it still needs a full tune when you change AFM

if your car is relatively stock it will be fine if u drive it steady. I put my PFC in for a bit one day for a play and just ran around off boost at lower revs and it displayed next to no knock. The base map is pretty fuely i think but as long as u drive it to your tuner (if hes not a great distance away) really lightly it should be fine. If you have any doubts just run the stock ecu till u get there or nearby and change it then

It wont be driveable.

Yes it will!

I put a Z32 AFM in my R33 GTSt about four weeks ago, changed the PFC over to VG30 AFM, and have been driving it daily on the base PFC maps. Got a wideband Oxygen sensor and it holds around 12 when accelerating hardish, and around 14 when cruising...cruise is a bit rich for my liking...knock is always low though...

Other related mods are FMIC, 3" turbo back exhaust, pod filter, 10psi boost etc...

Going to put bigger injectors in soon, and then off for a tune... :D

Peter

Willing to put his motor on it?

It has been tuned for the current AFM, so it wont be running hell rich like a stock map which basically couldnt kill a motor if you tried...

Most likely the tune will be close to perfect, not rich and so on. Adding in a larger AFM could spell disaster.

I think its a silly risk when it is a 15min job to change at best, i would drive to the tuner, change the AFM when you get there, rest assured you will not mince anything.

Willing to put his motor on it?

It has been tuned for the current AFM, so it wont be running hell rich like a stock map which basically couldnt kill a motor if you tried...

Most likely the tune will be close to perfect, not rich and so on. Adding in a larger AFM could spell disaster.

I think its a silly risk when it is a 15min job to change at best, i would drive to the tuner, change the AFM when you get there, rest assured you will not mince anything.

Fair enough....my oversight...I agree....

Quick reply I must say...your like a hawk! :D

Pete

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...