Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've just put on new aftermarket turbos with the new style tomei dump pipes. I have noticed that I have about 5-7mm clearance in between the front turbo dump to the second turbo. Would it be necessary to wrap up the dump pipe with heat wrap or not?

I've heard rumors about it that prevents the dump from cooling down too quickly and cracking, some say it traps heat in and causes it to heat up too much and also heard when metal cools, it sweats and it can cause rusting.

what are your suggestions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283573-exhaust-heat-wrap/
Share on other sites

Make sure you use the stock head shields, that is all.

Not even the track GTR's coming outta Racepace have wrapped exhausts, i don't see the need personally and haven't seen a lot of evidence to back it up either

If it's a street car I don't think you'll have an issue with it being that close as there's nothing to melt in the area.

However, if you plan to track it some form of heat sheild is worth doing, whether you modify the stock ones or make some new ones out of sheet metal or that acl stuff you can get from supercheap. Thermal management is a major consideration for track work as you are generating lots of heat for reasonably long periods of time and it will just soak into surrounding bits of metal and ultimately attack anything perishable (rubber/silicone etc).

im interested in ceramic coating too, saw a great feature on motive dvd; how much is the stuff?

Use as a guide only..

Parts had to be stripped before taking them in. ie they wont disassemble anything (workshop liability which makes sense)

RB26 Twin 6boost Manifolds (External coating only, high polished Silver) $250.00

2 x Turbo Intake and Exhaust housings (External coating only, comp housing high polish silver, exhaust housings black) $160.00

2 x Split Dump pipes (internal and external coating, high polished Silver)

$120.00 per metre

Done by Competition Coating in Guilford.

Cheers,

Johno

thanks for the reply guys, problem fixed I put a welding shield which is abit stiffer then the normal heat wrap around the part where is needed and put a clamp around it, its not covering the dump pipe that much so it wont be a problem.

Use as a guide only..

Parts had to be stripped before taking them in. ie they wont disassemble anything (workshop liability which makes sense)

RB26 Twin 6boost Manifolds (External coating only, high polished Silver) $250.00

2 x Turbo Intake and Exhaust housings (External coating only, comp housing high polish silver, exhaust housings black) $160.00

2 x Split Dump pipes (internal and external coating, high polished Silver)

$120.00 per metre

Done by Competition Coating in Guilford.

Cheers,

Johno

I appreciate the reply and i will use it as a guide, jst dont want to get a quote 300% above etc

Specifically i want to get my stock manifolds bored to suit new turbines and ceramic coat them + exhaust housings + dump pipes; can you ceramic coat cast iron though?......well with good or valued results?

thanks

-Johnny

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...