Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

heya guys,

just want to know.. im thinking about taking my car to wakefield and i know that the stock r33 gtr turbos being cast wheels are very shit and tend to go when pushed..

my question is, what is a safe amount of boost to run 10 psi ??

its a stock engine.. just filters cat back exhaust apexi PFC. everything else is stock.

thanks in advance for your help. i just dont want to do any damage to my car.

thanks chris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283780-need-help-from-you-skyline-gods/
Share on other sites

just want to know.. im thinking about taking my car to wakefield and i know that the stock r33 gtr turbos being cast wheels are very shit and tend to go when pushed..

my question is, what is a safe amount of boost to run 10 psi ??

The turbine wheels are ceramic and yeah they go pop. Mine did at 13psi with a very conservative 11.5 AFR tune, at Wakefield. Fortunately i could drive home - i hear to tow back to sydney is ~$800.

Anyways, the more boost the more risk, and if you're unlucky the motor can be destroyed when they go. So yeah, just run them at stock boost, and try and get some steel wheeled replacements as soon as you can. FWIW the stockers are supposed to be rebuilt every 100,000kms.

i have a high flow cat. 14.5 psi is what it is running.

this is going to be my first taking it on the track so i wont be going too crazy. i think ill just run it at 10 psi. and let it cool down every 15 mins ( as its 15 mins on the track at a time )

n1 oil pump and acl race bearings have been fitted also.

so yous are saying 10 psi will be safe ?

there is no way to guarantee what is safe and what isn't. I have run one R32 GTR on stock turbos at 14psi at lots of track days without problems. on the other side I know of plenty that died on their first track day at stock boost.

it's a risk. you might be fine, you might not. there is not way to tell. sure running less boost should improve your chances so keep it to 10 or 12psi would be a good idea. an oil cooler is a good idea too on any GTR going to the track and a proper oil pressure and oil temp gauge is handy too as the stock ones are pretty hopeless. keep the revs sensible (no need to rev a mild GTR past 7500 or even 7,000 really on track) and keep an eye on temps and you SHOULD be fine. no promises though.....

there is no way to guarantee what is safe and what isn't. I have run one R32 GTR on stock turbos at 14psi at lots of track days without problems. on the other side I know of plenty that died on their first track day at stock boost.

it's a risk. you might be fine, you might not. there is not way to tell. sure running less boost should improve your chances so keep it to 10 or 12psi would be a good idea. an oil cooler is a good idea too on any GTR going to the track and a proper oil pressure and oil temp gauge is handy too as the stock ones are pretty hopeless. keep the revs sensible (no need to rev a mild GTR past 7500 or even 7,000 really on track) and keep an eye on temps and you SHOULD be fine. no promises though.....

ahh sweet thanks for the info... like i said its my first time on the track i wont be going to crazy as i will only be just learning the limits of the car. ill run about 12 psi.. and as i have no oil cooler or anything. i will just take it easy and enjoy myself.

thanks for all the info guys ( just cross your fingers for me ) lol...

im going to wakefield on the 29th i think.. the end of this month, so ill let use know how i go.

thanks again for the help !! :cool:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...