Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all,

i've got my s13 for sale as i've got no licence atm and need to start prioritizing my life and focus on other things that are more important then the car.

so, i've got a 1991 s13 silvia.

its got around 117xxx on the clock and 90xxxkms on the engine, the previous owner bought a new engine from just jap late last year.

at the same time he replaced the clutch with an exedy replacement item, feels good, drives very well.

the car has new brake pads all round, the front rotors are stock and the rears are slotted, i have a set of 4 pot z32 calipers on the shelf that will come with the car, all that is needed for the upgrade is the rotors off a z32 300zx and a bigger brake master cylinder( $50 ).

the car has an apexi s13 super intake kit valued at $299, it has 4-1 jasma approved extractors which give it good top end power for an SR20DE, it has a full 2.5" exhaust which was custom made by liverpool exhausts, i have put on a set of 2.5" flutes on the back, they are very loud but i have got a cannon muffler that can be welded on if needed for the sale.

its rolling on a set of 15x7 +25 bbs meshies with good tread all round, up front is 8kg cusco coilovers and JIC 6kg on the rear.

the interior is pretty clean for its age, i have removed the rear seat and the interior trim from the boot, the plastic panel were in pretty bad shape as the previous owner was a bricky and used it to get to and from work <_<

the rear seat is ready to be bolted back in along with the seatbelts and anything else that was removed.

the front seats are in average condition, they are the stadard sr tweed seats, they are somewhat dirty and the drivers side bolster is finished.

i have a pair of front 300zx seats retrimmed in blue cloth for the front, just need to modify the rails to bolt them in as the z32 rails are not wide enough, will be included in the sale.

the car has adjustable strut braces up front and back, i am unsure of the brands as they came with the car when i bought it.

the paint on the car was pretty bad, had alot of scratches everywhere so i gave it a quick coat in matte black, it is not a pretty looking car BUT, for $7000 total price the car will be resprayed in any basic colour at the buyers choice by a professional panel beater, not a dodgy backyard job.

the car will have to be sanded down and prep'd for the respray like any car and if the buyer wants to go ahead with the respray i will require the asking price of the car before any prep or paint will commence.

i have alot of plans for this car, i would LOVE to keep it and eventually turn it into some sort of weekend track weapon but things in my life need to change for the best, i have found myself focusing on the car more then my career and it needs to stop hence the sale.

so, $6000 for the car as is, with the z32 300zx 4 pot calipers for the front + the pair of 300zx retrimmed front seats + cannon muffler.

OR

$7000 for the car + a professional respray of the buyers choice (custom colour will be extra along with any body work ect.)

- link to my original for sale ad http://www.nissansilvia.com/classifieds/vi...g.php?view=2681 -

call or text

no longer interested in trades

0433185307

james

CAR MUST GO ASAP, NO LICENCE AND NO JOB SO I NEED THE CASH

Hey,how much with a body kit thrown on aswell and resprayed?

email me more info and some pics if u can:)

[email protected]

atm i cant afford to buy a kit and chuck it on when its sprayed, if you want to go that way with it, we do the deal and you supply the kit, spoiler whatever you want and bring it to me, i'll have to sand down the car myself but everything else will be done at a panel shop.

i'd much rather just sell it as it is and be done with the car as i have no job now and need the money.

no longer offering the respray, i do not have the cash available to prep the car for paint.

the asking price is $6000, that is what i am asking, will not sell for anything less.

not $5k, not $5,500... $6000 cash as it is right now, if not i will just keep the car untill i get my licence back.

will consider trades for an R32

  • 2 weeks later...

i'm located in wollongong guys.

if your interested please leave a post here so i can keep track of it as i dont have any credit due to lack of job/licence.

post here or call me if interested.

cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...