Jump to content
SAU Community

Skyline Sounds Like A Wrx

MyR33GTS-T

By MyR33GTS-T,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

MyR33GTS-T Contributor

MyR33GTS-T

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys.

Was working on my R33 GTS-T Series 2. Put in new plugs. and now the car has never run the same.

I replace the plugs as the car was unstabe under heavy throttle loads.

I put it back together and its running like a WRX.

After this tho....

I bought new CoilPacks, and new plugs again... and gapped them. and changed the fuel filter.

AND it is still running like a shitbucket wrx. tested crank angle sensor and engin compression ratio, and also fuel pressure.

Any Help.

Next step is to have a look at the injectors.

Any suggestions before i take my car to bits?????

Cheers,

Michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283965-skyline-sounds-like-a-wrx/
Share on other sites
MyR33GTS-T Contributor

MyR33GTS-T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah will do..

My mechanic mate has put more plugs in and tested them... but will get him to do it again.

So not fuel related.????

Even though it is running lean?

Keep coming with the suggestions :D

Super_Dude Enthusiast

Super_Dude

Posted
Posted

It's probably an ignition issue. Try swapping an ignitor with a buddy and see if that works. Also, what are you gaping the plugs to and what kind of coils are you running? Pull the cover off an pull the coil plugs off one at a time. the one that doesn't just about kill the motor and sounds the same is your problem cylinder.

Your car probably isn't actually running lean. If you don't have spark in one cylinder then air and fuel is just passing threw causing the wideband to read lean.

Hope that helps.

nobby Collaborator

nobby

Posted
Posted
yeah will do..

My mechanic mate has put more plugs in and tested them... but will get him to do it again.

So not fuel related.????

Even though it is running lean?

Keep coming with the suggestions :down:

I have had new plugs that where stuffed straight out of the box, quite a few times over the years, but

Try testing the wiring loom for the coils, the loom for these that runs to coils is fairly straight foward to remove from car. I'd bet the loom has poor conections inside it and since you moved this to fit new plugs etc, its proberly upset the ageing factory wiring.

(note) it may test ok, have a look inside loom, I recently did on my gtr and found a real problem as there is a number of wire crimps, which I soldered and my car its now even more of a joy to drive than ever before. If you don't realy know how to solder best to get someone who knows what their doing as these wires are a bit thick at crimped area.

TIP don't just wrap in electrical tape use self alamagating tape, far better sealing properties but expensive. Jaycar have it.

Hope this helps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...