Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I've been in Perth since 2006 (I'm a brit), just got an '97 R33 GT25T.

Not being too familiar with WA laws though having not driven much...was just wondering about the following:

If I add stuff like upgraded exhaust or turbo stuff (any mods to do with the engine) do I have to get a mandatory emissions cert that cost shed loads of $$$? Even if stuff is OEM. At the moment my car is all stock. That seems bloody ridiculous.

What are the laws about rim sizes and stuff. I heard drivers got done for 'big rims'?

I heard someone say you need sticker on your gear shifter to show its 'map' also? WTF? :(

What's the law about being lowered etc? What is too low?

I've heard loads on the media about the 'hoon problem', now with this legislation the police have discretionary power to impound cars right? A wheel screech, hard braking, revving too hard, etc is enough potentially to get a 48hr impound at your expense? The state has declared war on high performance cars (and their 'hoon' drivers) it seems?

Can a cop just send me to get an emmisions test just 'cos they suspect I have mods? Who pays for that?

Cheers

I've heard loads on the media about the 'hoon problem', now with this legislation the police have discretionary power to impound cars right? A wheel screech, hard braking, revving too hard, etc is enough potentially to get a 48hr impound at your expense? The state has declared war on high performance cars (and their 'hoon' drivers) it seems?

Can a cop just send me to get an emmisions test just 'cos they suspect I have mods? Who pays for that?

1) - well yes they can, its totally at your expense, it even costs for towing and storage. hmm i know traction loss and excessive speed summarises hooning, but revving too hard doesnt ring any bells. for all i know you could be reving your engine up to 5K for the fun of it. dont see how it can 'risk the safety on the road for other drivers', or either if you chose to get to 60km/h in first gear, (revs would be about 5-6K), aslong as you dont lose traction or exceed 60km/h i dont see how its hooning.

2) i think - me thinks you could be reffering to the 'pits' - the pits is where cars go if they are modified, imported or given a yellow sticker (a yellow sticker is issued by the police if they think your vehicle is unroadworthy, ie damaged and/or illegally modified) it is again totally at your expense in money, (and especially in perth) TIME!

police are targetting performance cars. while im doing my best to fish tail or drift a roundabout in the family's honda accord, the police would be more interested in a performance car, who could very well NOT be hooning or attempting to hoon. To WA police, a performance car is pretty much like walking through an airport with wires sticking out of a jacket

If I add stuff like upgraded exhaust or turbo stuff (any mods to do with the engine) do I have to get a mandatory emissions cert that cost shed loads of $$$? Even if stuff is OEM. At the moment my car is all stock. That seems bloody ridiculous.

Emmisions testing is required if the vehicle is pre-89, aftermarket cat (compliance requires one of these anyway), has an ADDED turbo (aftermarket, upgrade, etc - non-OEM), or any major mods that increase performance AND emmisions (ie, camshafts).

Emmisions is currently not required for vehicles already registered - stay away from yellow stickers and you're fine.

What are the laws about rim sizes and stuff. I heard drivers got done for 'big rims'?

Not sure on this but I THINK no more than 2" bigger than factory, also complying with the suspension rules.

I heard someone say you need sticker on your gear shifter to show its 'map' also? WTF? :(

Apparently an H pattern sticker is needed, showing the shift pattern, 99/100 cops wont give a shit about this and you can probably pass over the pits without it as well, but it doesnt hurt to order a sticker and keep it in your glovebox, handy for when the cop is walking from his door to your own.

What's the law about being lowered etc? What is too low?

Again, I'll let someone else answer this but the rule of thumb is you must be able to fit 2 fingers between the wheel and the guard ??

I've heard loads on the media about the 'hoon problem', now with this legislation the police have discretionary power to impound cars right? A wheel screech, hard braking, revving too hard, etc is enough potentially to get a 48hr impound at your expense? The state has declared war on high performance cars (and their 'hoon' drivers) it seems?

Yes, cops hate high performance cars - Our kind is illegal and are not allowed to exist without hassles.

Can a cop just send me to get an emmisions test just 'cos they suspect I have mods? Who pays for that?

You pay for that seing as you dont pay enough tax.

They cant say "your car needs an IM240 TEST!" however they can yellow you for something else and then your vehicle MAY meet a criteria in which it would need an emmisions test to make it over the pits. Although alot of people are passing without these tests, depending on how close to factory their vehicles are setup (keep a stock exhaust and friendly cat handy)

1) - well yes they can, its totally at your expense, it even costs for towing and storage. hmm i know traction loss and excessive speed summarises hooning, but revving too hard doesnt ring any bells. for all i know you could be reving your engine up to 5K for the fun of it. dont see how it can 'risk the safety on the road for other drivers', or either if you chose to get to 60km/h in first gear, (revs would be about 5-6K), aslong as you dont lose traction or exceed 60km/h i dont see how its hooning.

You can still get done for excess noise I believe.

& if you take off too fast (accelerate too fast but still keep to speed limit) you can still get done.

Bottom line is: if a cop wants your a*s, he will get it :(

Excessive noise does fall into hoon laws, and there has been a law for a while: "undue/unneccesary acceleration" or whatever its called, 3 demerit points ... :(

So does that mean you can get "hoon law-ed" if your stereo is too loud?

Good thing all I listen to is Old Chinese songs with no bass at all :P

Excessive noise does fall into hoon laws, and there has been a law for a while: "undue/unneccesary acceleration" or whatever its called, 3 demerit points ... :P

wow... ahh i was thinking more a safety issue. but hey if they're gonna get all pissed about noise wait till you live near the leach why truck lane... on a steep hill... my gran lives there dont know how she stands it... ah but shes pretty much deaf :(

You can get hoon law'ed for sneezing in a Skyline on a country road 500km's out of Perth - filthy hoon, don't take your eyes of the road or you could lose control of that skid and kill someone!!!

Seriously, I dunno about 90'000kw stereo's, my understanding as that Lebo's are more prone to police brutality, about as prone as HPV drivers are to police hoon laws.... ?

The laws about how low your car can go - the lowest part of the car (body kit, exhaust, anything other than the rims) is not to be lower than 100mm

I know - I work at Licensing

That's with 4 people in the car and a full tank isn't it?

If I add stuff like upgraded exhaust or turbo stuff (any mods to do with the engine) do I have to get a mandatory emissions cert that cost shed loads of $$? Even if stuff is OEM. At the moment my car is all stock. That seems bloody ridiculous.

Emmisions testing is required if the vehicle is pre-89, aftermarket cat (compliance requires one of these anyway), has an ADDED turbo (aftermarket, upgrade, etc - non-OEM), or any major mods that increase performance AND emmisions (ie, camshafts).

Emmisions is currently not required for vehicles already registered - stay away from yellow stickers and you're fine.

So if I did a 'stage 1' tune of say 3" exhaust, POD filter, bigger intercooler, electronic boost control, ECU, would that require an emissions test? Are those mods even legal, I've heard about 'illegal' mods

What are the laws about rim sizes and stuff. I heard drivers got done for 'big rims'?

Not sure on this but I THINK no more than 2" bigger than factory, also complying with the suspension rules.

What are the suspension rules?

I heard someone say you need sticker on your gear shifter to show its 'map' also? WTF? :(

Apparently an H pattern sticker is needed, showing the shift pattern, 99/100 cops wont give a shit about this and you can probably pass over the pits without it as well, but it doesnt hurt to order a sticker and keep it in your glovebox, handy for when the cop is walking from his door to your own.

That is so retardedly ridiculous. I guess I can't draw my own on a post it note? :P

1. You might be able to pass with that, seing as it is improvising aftermarket equipment which isnt soo much about more performance, its just an alternative to OEM, but again, reception is different, so be prepared to have to take an emmisions test in any case.

2. Suspension rules, basically, 2 fingers between the wheel and guard = and nothing can be lower than 100mm off the ground, OR nothing within 1 metre of either axle can be 100mm off the ground.

Anything lower than that starts looking stupid and kills the practibilitiy of your car seing as you wont be able to tacle speed bumps and ramps and shopping centres and whatnot.

I think the rule IS with equivalent weight of 4 people in the car (4x 80kg) and full tank of fuel.

3. eBay have those clear stickers with the patten, and the Nismo logo at the bottom, for an extra 8hp, and it's only a few bucks, plenty of stickers from that one shop you could buy and cram into an envelope Im sure :devil:

I've heard you do need the shuift pattern but never heard of anyone beong yellow'd or rejected over the pits because of it.

The laws about how low your car can go - the lowest part of the car (body kit, exhaust, anything other than the rims) is not to be lower than 100mm

I know - I work at Licensing

do you know how long RED's Ps last on the old legislation?

there was no red Ps on the old legislation.

well i got my L plates in jan 08. but only did my phase one test in march this year,

then did 25 hours and passed HPT, to get provisional license,

that was the old legislation?

old legislation is:

- Take theory

- Do practical

- 25 hours log book

- HPT

- Green Ps 2 years

- Full license

son of a b**** - the lady gave me a red P set only... and she knew i was old legis... damnit

old legislation is:

- Take theory

- Do practical

- 25 hours log book

- HPT

- Green Ps 2 years

- Full license

Old legislation was written test @ 16 years 9 months

driving test @ 17 years

1 year p plates then full license

down side was max speed limit on l plate was 72 kmh

max speed on p plate was 80 kph

son of a b**** - the lady gave me a red P set only... and she knew i was old legis... damnit

The "new" and "old" legislation bit was only with respect to the number of hours accompanied driving you needed to do to get your "p"s. If you had your "L"s before the change, you still only had to do 25 hours. If you only got your "L"s after the change, you have to do 100 hours, or whatever it is.

When they changed the regulations regarding the two colours of "P"s, you had to display the new type and could not continue to display the old type (with a short grace period). My son had his "P"s not long before the change and he had to get red "P"s, even though he had been driving on "P"s for a couple of months. My other son had his "P"s for about 18 months and had to get greens ones.

Regarding what is legal and what is not, these are set by the Australian Design Rules, or ADRs. Each state then applies their own interpretation of certain aspects - e.g. in Victoria you cannot have two mods on your intake (or something like that). So you cannot have pods and an aftermarket intercooler. In WA you can have both, as long as they are properly fitted and secured.

To check more, use the "Search" button. This has been covered many times in WA.

Also go look at the WA Dept. of Infrastructure and Planning website - they actually explain a lot of it (in very unhelpful language!).

Cheers. :devil:

Edited by MLCrisis

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...