Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When I bought my car it already had KingSprings lows, not superlows, according to Kings when I told them the ride hight was 350mm front and rear.

These are fitted to stock AFAIK OE origional shockys, the set up seemed somewhat harsh to me but this is my first Skyline so WTF would I know- (previously had REX's and an FC3C Rx7 amongst other rides).

The upshot of this set up is that one of the front struts has blown and is leaking , which all things being even isn't greatly surprising 10YO car, 79000ks, hard lowered springs, and sooo smooth roads, in spite of Kings assurances that they are 3kg/cm (and I'll bet the other strut aint far behind it).

I should note that one of the castor strut bushes poped last week and Auto-tech have fitted polyeurathane replacements both sides, the one that poped was the opposite side to the gorn strut.

I'm thinking that good replacements for the front struts would be Pedders Comfortlines to take a bit of the harshness out of the springs at the front with maybe 10mm shorter bumpstops for a tad more travel.

Pedders assure me that the shockys travel will be fine with that set up.

Has anyone tried this set up or have any any comments before I burn some more hard earned ?

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284850-blown-front-strut/
Share on other sites

Pedders are just re-branded monroes but more expensive. They're a very basic shock. Pretty much the shittest new shocks money can buy. I would HIGHLY recommend a set of Bilstein B6 shocks for amazing comfort AND handling or if ur too stingey, KYB Excel-G at the very least.

i wouldnt.

:D he-he, I ain't after these replys , thanks guys , bit of a problem as the R34GT-t dosen't have much spec'd specificly for it, Bilstein's and Koni's are a bit exy for me at around $385.00+ a corner , so it looks like KYB will be the go at around $215 a corner however Koni are only only spec'd as far as the R33, does anyone know if the R33 spec will be suitable for the R34.

OE are $205.00 but have only one in stock in Melb according to Nissan who should know, so that'll be + 10 days oooooooorr so (maybe) for delivery from the land of the rising currant and they're paid up front so if the dam things don't arrive I'll still be locked in and I can't keep driving with a busted shocky indeffinately.

Cheers again for the replys :D

:) he-he, I ain't after these replys , thanks guys , bit of a problem as the R34GT-t dosen't have much spec'd specificly for it, Bilstein's and Koni's are a bit exy for me at around $385.00+ a corner , so it looks like KYB will be the go at around $215 a corner however Koni are only only spec'd as far as the R33, does anyone know if the R33 spec will be suitable for the R34.

OE are $205.00 but have only one in stock in Melb according to Nissan who should know, so that'll be + 10 days oooooooorr so (maybe) for delivery from the land of the rising currant and they're paid up front so if the dam things don't arrive I'll still be locked in and I can't keep driving with a busted shocky indeffinately.

Cheers again for the replys :)

Bilstien are only $295 per corner. You CANT buy any other mono tube for that coin.

Dont waste time, but the bilsteins

Bilstien are only $295 per corner. You CANT buy any other mono tube for that coin.

Dont waste time, but the bilsteins

Thanks mate could you possibly give me a link where I can get them from at that price, I live on the Gold Coast and that just isn't near what I've been quoted so far localy, I must be contacting the wrong places.

Also as a point of interest I've been quoted for a KYB front strut fit up when KYB Technical in Melbourne tell me that they don't have a listing for an R34--how does that work do KYB R33 shockys fit R34s ? ah hem. :)

I've been told by both my mechanic and wrecker-supplies-guy that R33 and R34 shocks are interchangeable.

Thats what I thought as well until I found out that the R33 KYB front struts have different part nos for 08.93-11.94 2wd inc 4ws (NSF9053) and the R33GT-S & GT-R (NSF9058) and further the R34 2wd (GTV2.0 . 2.5GT . 2.5GTT) which have part No NSF9092.

The KYB R34 struts are not available through KYB in Australia , this I found out by phoning KYB Melb (03 9730 4999 (ask for Jason) they were however kind enough to point me to a supplier in NZ www.Georgestock.co.nz I have emailed them and requested cost, frieght cost and delivery time.

KYB also couldn't explain what the difference would be only that niether of the R33 struts was listed as an alternative should the correct R34 ones not be available.

I personaly have no idea, it could be spring seat hight or size variation, brake line clip difference, valving (as the R34 is a bit heavier ?) whatever-- and KYB couldn't tell me.

The above part Nos are all for GAS-A-JUST monotube gas. the part No for Super Twin Tube Gas is 341287 this is availabe for the R33 sedan & coupe 2wd inc 4ws 08.93-11.94 only.

Edited by BASHO

Oh wow, jeez... I'm glad I didn't pick up those 34 shocks then. Mind you they may still fit, but they use a different part number. I don't know enough about these things though, so I'm going to leave it there.

How much did ur r34 gtt cost and u won't spend $300 a shock on it?

Is this aimed at me ? if it is add something usefull or piss off, how much I paid for my R34 and what I'm prepared to pay is none of your friken buisness.

If it's not aimed at me sorry, pls ignore the previous comment.

The fact of the matter is there is only a couple of brands I have found so far that actualy has any struts specific (claimed) to the R34GT-t and thats Pedders (Monroe?), which have received a luke warm reception on here and KONI but KONI specs the same for R33 and I think r32 ad nausiem one size fits all--sure it does --and at around $385.00 a corner + fitting it's simply robbery.

KYB specs front (adjustables only)-NSF9092- these are not available in Australia and NZ seems to be out of stock until 28-10-09. No prices as yet.

Bilstein has NOTHING for an R34 and you'll be luck to get anything for an R33 either according to Bilstien Melbourne this morning, they will custom at around $400 a corner but need an OE Factory shock to start from.(very reasonable considering it's a custom jobby)

I have looked at various coilovers and the spring rates are far higher than I want and an absolutely silly waste in every direction on a general dutys street car.

Nissan OE struts are available @ $205.57ea but don't seem to work overly well with the Kingsprings that came with the car however that may be because the springs are very fresh and need to wear in a little.

So it's not just about money atall it's about getting the right part (and price) and not just using the "well it fits so it must be right and pay plenty and it must be good" adages.

Edited by BASHO

Basho... I don't really have a suggestion as far as parts go, but if you wanted to save some money you could try installing yourself. It doesn't take that much, a mid-level toolkit will do fine, maybe with a good breaker bar to get the pesky lug off the bottom of the strut.

I wasn't really mechanically minded until I got my skyline... but have learnt heaps from doing things like this myself.

Sorry mate i don't mean how much u paid specifically. I more meant that they're a great high quality car and not cheap so why not put the quality parts in it it deserves rather than spoiling a $25k car to save $200.

And I'm in agreement , however , of the only couple I've come across that are actualy for the R34GT-t it turns out that one brand has been rated rather poorly by people who have actualy used them and the other is not actualy specific but generic too, it seems, nearly anything with an R3 prefix, ie R32 R33 R34 is extortionaly priced and with no certainty that it will be 'the goods' so to speak, potentialy $800 out the door and 3 months later no further forward.

I have in any event decided to go with stock for the time being as I have been assured that the springs are not so low as to cause a problem and that the passenger shocky that blew was more likely a casualty in spite of rather than because of the springs.

I will be doing the fitting myself, and it aint the money--I actualy enjoy working on the car.

Oh yup--I swapped the R34 for $7k cash and a demonstrator MY08 TK09 Barina with 2700ks on it he he which I aquired in a moment of madness when petrol looked like hitting 2 bucks/ltr last year..

;)

I will be doing the fitting myself, and it aint the money--I actualy enjoy working on the car.

I hear you mate... I'm very happy with what I now know how to do, such a rewarding feeling when it goes right.

Get Koni's at trade price... you are being ripped... a set of reds should be 700ish, Yellows a bit more(but bloody worth it), Personally I would prefer Bilsteins, but Koni's are cheaper/easier to re-valve, so Koni yellows should be considered.

Edited by RB_Ryan
Get Koni's at trade price... you are being ripped... a set of reds should be 700ish, Yellows a bit more(but bloody worth it), Personally I would prefer Bilsteins, but Koni's are cheaper/easier to re-valve, so Koni yellows should be considered.

Theyre not called red/yellow anymore, havent been for years.

They are also fairly terrible, read a few more reviews if you need confirmation,

Also the Konis are not easy to rebuild. Not bya long shot. not here or in the USA. At least the bilstein you "could" rebuild yourself if you set out to do it. But you CANT rebuild konis.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...