Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

The clutch fluid has been leaking consistently from my r32 for the past month or so, and I have just been refilling it when needed. However, I think it's about time I had it fixed.

I recieved a quote from a workshop of around $500 to replace the slave/master cylinders(with new items I believe), but I am wondering if there are any other options. Is it a good idea to replace both cylinders(assuming only one is faulty)? How about wreckers... or is this just asking for more trouble? anyone had this problem before? Help would be great, cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284984-leaking-clutch-fluid/
Share on other sites

Hahahahahahahahahahahaha!

Strike that ripoff merchant from the list of workshops to trust.

Haha, I'm glad you said that... I was getting worried that 500 was the amount I was going to have to cough up. Dealing with mechanics is still new to me.

Moodles, cheers for the link, very likely I'll be buying from there. Now if only I knew where the leak is coming from I wouldn't have to buy both...

Hi all,

The clutch fluid has been leaking consistently from my r32 for the past month or so, and I have just been refilling it when needed. However, I think it's about time I had it fixed.

I recieved a quote from a workshop of around $500 to replace the slave/master cylinders(with new items I believe), but I am wondering if there are any other options. Is it a good idea to replace both cylinders(assuming only one is faulty)? How about wreckers... or is this just asking for more trouble? anyone had this problem before? Help would be great, cheers.

The quote of $500 seems rather pricey. However, it is good practice to replace both cylinders even if only 1 is faulty.

I'd ask around and get more quotes.

Sorry mate, but what kind of kit do ya mean? :D

A recon kit. It has the seals and piston rubbers in it. Put one through your master and while you're at it, drop one into your slave.

Go to Nissan, a brake parts store, or an auto store like Stupid Cheap to buy them.

This is an EXAMPLE ONLY of what you're looking for: http://www.shopping.com/xDN-automotive_par...er_cylinder_kit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't think the shuffle can damage the turbos. It only happens at low shaft speeds and loads. It's just annoying (to some people - others are tickled by the effect) and it quite possibly reduces spool performance a little bit.
    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
×
×
  • Create New...