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Its been happening for quite a while now, was fine when driving the car... just topped it up and all was well. Can see it peeling the paint off the booster.

Since defect it sat for 3 weeks, (completely forgot about it) which gave it long enough time to completely empty itself. Now with air in the system, brakes are useless.. So cant drive it to get repaired...

So my question is, should I just take it off & get the seals redone? Or is there more to it then that. Or just buy a completely different unit? Anyone here that can vouch for a place to do it? Was going to just bleed the brakes and put new stuff through it, but seeing as its gonna do it again anyway.. might as well do it once, and do it properly. :)

I would take it off myself, never really looked at the thing so just wondering if its an easy task...

Thanks.. much appreciated. :)

Adam..

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285023-brake-master-cylinder-leaking/
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  • 2 months later...

both, i could be wrong and R34's for some reason are stupidly expensive, but to give u an idea i paid under $100 for mine in the 32.

i deal with all clutch and brake down here in SA, maybe try them and see if they can send u something.

i just rang nissan here in brisbane they want $460 for a R32 new brake master cylinder and around $190 for a rebuild kit

i'm a bit weary of the rebuild kit though, i really can't be f**ked pulling it apart once to see if it has scoring along the barrel then trying to put it back together so i can drive my car in the 10 days i need to wait for either one depending on the condition of the barrel to come from Japan

http://www.autobrakeservice.com.au/index.php

Still have the baggie, it was sitting in my rubbish for when I clear away that area..

protex 210J0159 is what is on the label.. Make sure it is the 1" master, and I can't remember if it was the nabuko or tokiko, think it was nabuko..

Remove the master cylinder, pull it apart, follow the workshop manual, easy as.. make sure everything is sparkling clean, you don't want any little bit of dirt getting in there. after you remove the piston assembly you can shine a torch in there and you will be able to see if there has been any corrosion, contamination, scoring, etc. In my case it was just old seals that lost tension.

Brakes are better than they have ever been. Transfer case clutchpack decided to die shortly after as well, never ends.

Edited by heller44

Thanks a million Heller44 for you info this will help me alot and hopefully keep my wallet alot heavier as well :( and yes it never ends a love hate relationship.

Cheers,

Dave

Remove the master cylinder, pull it apart, follow the workshop manual, easy as.. make sure everything is sparkling clean, you don't want any little bit of dirt getting in there. after you remove the piston assembly you can shine a torch in there and you will be able to see if there has been any corrosion, contamination, scoring, etc. In my case it was just old seals that lost tension.

Brakes are better than they have ever been. Transfer case clutchpack decided to die shortly after as well, never ends.

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