Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anybody had dealings with them, if so were they good?

I have been in contact with Trevor Campbell there and he said that for my stock 33gtst to get to 200 rwkw I would need a dif turbo.

For $2k i get a twin dump pipe stainless steel 3inch system with hi flo cat @ 30 kw.

For $5k i get that + FMIC 600x300 (they manu their own), malpassi regulator and boost controller @ 45 kw all up.

For $10.5k i get all that + new turbo and PowerFC to take me to over 200 rwkw. How much do u think with all this?

Does this sound reasonable prices and good upgrade path ie:

1. Exhaust

2. FMIC, regulator, boost

3. New turbo, PowerFC

I guess @ $10.5K I'm almost getting into 'might as well sell ur gtst and get a

33 GTR territory'.

Anybody know any good skyline performance people in Bris with good prices and rep?

Any advice be good. Tar.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28521-ces-racing-near-brisvegas/
Share on other sites

I got a CES Exhaust for my R33 and it was awesome. Highly recommend them for exhaust work tehy are by far one of the best. Although they to tried to sell me a FMIC but its kinda expensive when you can get a similar Hybrid Intercooler for about $1k, same size to. So get the exhaust from them but get the FMIC and the rest else where.

Hmmmm!! You don't really need Stainless exhaust, by the time a mild steel one rusts you will probably have a different car...so.....

turbo back 3"and hi flow cat about $1200, Rob Bliss or Drift King

Hybrid FMIC 600x300x78 and pipes about $1200

Power FC from nengun or Greenline about $1200

Apexi Power intake pod filter about $140 not really needed a K&N filter for your stock airbox will flow just as well but won't sound as sexy.

up the boost to 10 to 12 psi with a 2 stage boost controller and you should be very close or there.

To my mind it's worth moving the throttle body to the front of the inlet plenum. It shortens the pipe from the ic to the plenum gives better access to the engine , plugs etc and simplifies fitting a cold air box if you use a pod filter.

Read the appropriate threads in the performance forum.

Ok

Rob Bliss will do a turbo back, high flow cat, 3inch for $1100

CES do a twin dump pipe, 3 inch system for $2k but they clain 32 rwkw gain with whole system.

Big difference in price. Question is am I getting what I paid for ie is the CES system almost double the price because it gives much better kw gains?

Oh decisions, decisions.

Basically what 51jay said for the parts, then buy your own turbo either hks gt2535 (t3 flange) or garrett gt25/45 something with t3 flange and a/r .64 exhaust housing. $$$ wise is 1.5k to 2k for turbo, and probably 1k and more with parts for install.

Go here for intercooler related:

http://www.are.com.au/

Hope that helps :D

I have had a few dealings with CES , yes there work is second to none, some say it pricey, but comparing the works around the place, i'm more than happy to part with the lil extra cost, and yes, I go the mild steel exhaust as they sound SEXIER especially on a gtst than a tinny stainless.

ARE fmic are as good as you can get, Hybrid are pretty good for the price. If you want to eyeball both + Drift King and Rob Bliss turboback exhausts, they are all lying around my driveway, but don't waste any time they are all going back together over the next few days, just as soon as I can get rid of 4 Doorz miserable excuse of a 528i BMW. We've spent the best part of 2 days trying to get the exhaust manifold off !!! *** &&& !!!. With friends like Steve you sure don't need any enemies!!! :P:(

i wouldnt spend any more than 1200 bucks for an exhaust.. but its up to your personal prefrence. i dont think stainless is worth it.

proabably go

pod, exhaust, fmic, pump, maybe regulator, boost up (recommend ebc) then decide how much further you want to go. your standard tuning mite not be too good now either.

Got my exhaust done by CES racing and as hungry6 said, their work is second to none, if you want quality then you have to part with a little more cash, i'm glad I did.

I posted some pictures of my exhaust in the QLD section, but this gives me another chance to post them:p .

GT-R%20005.jpg

GT-R%20004.5.jpg .

Sounds awesome!.

Got my exhaust done by CES racing and as hungry6 said, their work is second to none, if you want quality then you have to part with a little more cash, i'm glad I did.  

I posted some pictures of my exhaust in the QLD section, but this gives me another chance to post them:p .

Sounds awesome!.

Looks good but do u believe that u gained the 50 rwkw that CES claim for their full GTR system. I mean I've only got an ECR33 although they claim 32-35 rwkw gain from the full system for one of these. Basically, I just wanna know that ill get the best gains in rwkw from these guys considering exhuasts are ur best kw for $ gains as compared to other mods, before I part with $2k. How much did u pay for ur Godzillas exhaust?

considering exhuasts are ur best kw for $ gains as compared to other mods, before I part with $2k. How much did u pay for ur Godzillas exhaust?

i wouldnt say this is true! exhaust is the mod which should be done first but it def isnt the best kw to $ mod.

i would say safc + boost increase would be best $ for mod.. i gained 35% more power with safc and boost increase and i only spent 500 ish dollars.

I also think saying that you will gain 32-35rwkw just from an exhaust is a little excessive but then again it could be the truth depending on which dyno it was put on to get this "reading" .

i wouldnt say this is true! exhaust is the mod which should be done first but it def isnt the best kw to $ mod.  

i would say safc + boost increase would be best $ for mod.. i gained 35% more power with safc and boost increase and i only spent 500 ish dollars.

I also think saying that you will gain 32-35rwkw just from an exhaust is a little excessive but then again it could be the truth depending on which dyno it was put on to get this "reading" .

That best bang for the buck this was something I read in here, but I wouldnt really know anyway. Guess I was thinking that 32-35 was excessive also so I wanted confirmation from AusGTR that he really made the 'claimed gains', and that a CES exhaust is worth getting ($2K) when i can get a Rob Bliss one for ($1.1k).

Just trying to make best decision on my first performance mod. IE Rob Bliss will do or CES racing is worth it because it gives better performance.

Looks good but do u believe that u gained the 50 rwkw that CES claim for their full GTR system. I mean I've only got an ECR33 although they claim 32-35 rwkw gain from the full system for one of these. Basically, I just wanna know that ill get the best gains in rwkw from these guys considering exhuasts are ur best kw for $ gains as compared to other mods, before I part with $2k. How much did u pay for ur Godzillas exhaust?

As much as I wish, you don't automatically gain **kw when changing your exhaust. That comes with tuning and able to run more boost with better flow. I haven't put my R on the dyno yet so I am unable to help you there, can feel the difference though ;) .

My exhaust saga continues...

Ok after talking to Rob Bliss he said that they would do a Single Dump Pipe. He said that this gives better low down (revs i guess) grunt than a twin. This sound accurate? Guess I'm thinking that would be good to get the car off the mark, make more even power from off to on boost. Maybe..

Anyways guess Ill save the extra $900 and get him to do the job. Doubt that the additional cost of CES @ $2k would also mean 45% more power as well as cost. Then I may have a woping 155 rwkw lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...