Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 5 months later...
i done a conversion about 3 years ago, cost me 4 grand all up then, for me it was worth it as the car was spotless inside and out. things you need as folloews

tailshaft

clutch

flywheel (machine before use)

gbox

shifter

console and inner and outer boot

brake peddle

clutch peddle with slave and master cylinder and hydraulic line

spigot

manual dash

wiring modded

can still use auto computer (i have only just changed it)

can still use auto diff (will be about 9km fast at 100km)

this conversion only takes a few hours with the right equipment so i wouldn't be paying over $1000 for labor, the car acts and looks like a manual except it has the little power/snow button.

hop this helps

Hi all,

Are there any other tell tale signs that an auto car has been converted to manual? Im also confused about the power/snow button. Where and what exactly is that?

Im in the process of buying a car and would not want one that has been converted to manual.

Thanks a lot! :down:

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

as far as the wiring is concerned, i confirm what Pal has said above,

if you look closely in his first two pictures, the top grey plug has two wires which need to be bridged (joined) just as his does.

the second plug from the top also grey has 8 wires. 3 of those you will need. and they are the green the white and the black.

when i wired mine up i went off this post http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/347765-converting-my-r33-to-manual/

and verified the gearbox side wiring with a multimeter to check and i also confirm those results too.

just to clarify a little. the black wire on that second grey plug from the top i used as a common earth for both the neutral switch and reverse switch.

these two switches on the gearbox have two wires each so just join one of each to the earth (black wire) and the green wire to the remaining reverse switch wire and the white wire to the other remaining wire on the neutral switch.

you can use a multimeter to figure out which one is the reverse switch by using your continuity function or you can by trial and error just twist them up temporaily with the ignition on and chuck it in reverse and see if the reverse lights come on. there is no danger in this approach of blowing anything as the switches have the same electrical characteristics and earth to the engine with no additional current.

i also used this post in the diy which was helpfull too. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/139916-diy-r34-manual-conversion-using-r33-parts/

thanks Pal for your help too!!!!!

  • 7 months later...

Its such a shock seeing what you guys paid all these years ago... 3k for parts??? Glad I waited till now as I've picked up pretty much everything under the body - complete rear end (diff, cradle, arms etc), complete front end (rack, arms, hubs etc) and gearbox conversion for $700.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
×
×
  • Create New...