Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I remember reading in a thread not long ago someone saying you shouldn't keep the accelerator depressed when shifting gears on the auto in the tiptronic/manual mode. The rationale was that you wouldn't keep the accelerator pedal depressed when changing gears in a manual, so why would you in manual/tiptronic mode?

I was trawling G35driver.com today and came across a thread about it, which says that you should keep the pedal depressed while changing gears in tiptronic. To me this makes more sense, as even if in manual mode, it is still an automatic gearbox and all you are doing is telling the car when to change gears, rather than it choosing for you. If you're not dropping revs into it from neutral or redlining it then I don't see how it can be doing any damage as it is still running the same auto mechanics.

Anyone else agree?

Here is the link: http://g35driver.com/forums/engine-drivetr...ronic-tips.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285856-tiptronicmm-question/
Share on other sites

Come on, own up to it, who thinks that you need to let off the accelerator when selecting a gear in a tiptronic AUTOMATIC gearbox? Then what do you do after letting off the accelerator, push the clutch pedal in? hahahah

I believe the words of wisdom came from here:

My preference is for a CVT gearbox as in normal bumper-to-bumper driving and highway cruising, the CVT changes gears smoothly at under 2,000 rpms in DRIVE gear = fuel economy. But when u slap it into tiptronic mode, it changes it characteristics and can rev to almost redline....just make sure that when u do use the tiptronic, to let your foot off the accelerator, change gear, then step on the accelerator...This 'TIP' is for those who have come from a manual transmission setup....You wouldn't change gears without clutching; would u? So please, despite the way how many drive tiptronics (like Top Gear), if u wanna prolong your auto transmission, ease off the gas b4 u change gears...Obviously this doesnt apply when u r in the DRIVE gear...

My 2 cents worth anyway....

If you're driving a car with a torque converter gearbox you shouldn't need to lift. It doesn't matter whether the electronics think its time to change or you do, in the end the mechanical process to select a new gear is the same.

I am pretty sure that advice should only apply to gearboxes with clutches. Whether you've got a 3 pedal setup, or you've got a car with an electronically controlled clutch (BMW SMG, Ferrari F1, VAG DSG, etc) its good to lift off the throttle when it changes gear and be gentler on the driveline.

The problem is that a lot of people drive the latter like a slusho because its only got 2 pedals, but mechanically it behaves the same as a traditional manual.

If you're driving a car with a torque converter gearbox you shouldn't need to lift. It doesn't matter whether the electronics think its time to change or you do, in the end the mechanical process to select a new gear is the same.

I am pretty sure that advice should only apply to gearboxes with clutches. Whether you've got a 3 pedal setup, or you've got a car with an electronically controlled clutch (BMW SMG, Ferrari F1, VAG DSG, etc) its good to lift off the throttle when it changes gear and be gentler on the driveline.

The problem is that a lot of people drive the latter like a slusho because its only got 2 pedals, but mechanically it behaves the same as a traditional manual.

Ok officially confused... all different replies....

say you want to get a good run off the line, shifting at red zone...

cause i tried changing to 2nd with my foot down on the pedal... car just ignored me and bounced all the way to limiter XD.... refused to change gears.....

is it some kind of self-protection?

so im guessing it should be like this? correct me if im misunderstanding..

1)TDC off...

2)hold brakes and rev to 1.5-2k

lights change

3) pedal to metal on M1

4) lift/ease off gas to change to M2 ?????

5) stomp on gas again???? or ease back in????? (VDC off)

Keep your foot down the whole time. Change the gear 500rpm before the red line. The gear changes are slower then you change and needs a little time.

If you wait until you get to the red line you'll hit the limiter.

Or get some grounding wires that should help. Right?

another question guys.

Does the power button will do anything on Manual shift?

Don't think so. All it does is hold the lower gears longer when accelerating hard and jump down gears quicker when you plant the right foot in auto mode. With manual mode you control this yourself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...