Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bunch of standard parts in my garage after stripping my car..if somethings not listed shoot me a pm i probably got it...everyone knows what these parts look like so i didnt bother with pics but if you have genuine interest in a part and require pics no worries...

block + head (n1 water pump + hks 1.8mm headgasket + manifold+harmonic balancer pulleys etc etc) 1000$

diff 300$

front hubs + control arms 250$

tailshaft 100$

steering rack 150$

power steer pump 100$

power window reg $80

power window switches drives side 50$

climate control 100$

Crank angle sensor 80$

polished crank angle sensor 100$

throttle body 30$

plenum with t.b 60$

air con core 30$

ignitor 80$

engine loom 200$

coilpack loom 50$

injector loom x 2 50$ each

a pillar trim (no damage or drillholes) 30$ each

interior plastics (make an offer if needed)

dash 100$

seats front 50$ pair

bonnet 75$

cams 50$ pair

cam gears x 4 10$ each

coilpack cover 40$

air con fans x 2 50$ each

timing cover (top and lower) 40$

hicas 100$

water pump 30$

alternator 100$

fuel rail 30$

aac valve 50$

rear skyline garnish 50$

oxygen sensor 40$

side indicators orange 30$

standard jack 20$

spare wheel 50$

tailights 150$ pair

crossover pipe 25$

throttle cable 30$

door trims front rear 50$ full set

radiator over flow 20$

washer bottle 25$

seat belts 20$ each

center console (no lid) 40$

rear view mirror 30$

cam caps / bearings 120$

bonnet rod 10$

ignition barrel with key (free nismo key) 100$

indicator/ wiper stalks 35$ each.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286861-stripped-r33-standard-parts-thread/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey mate im after a rb25 to drop in my vl i had a line but now stuck with a vl so im looking at a complete motor no turbo but looking for loom and acc to does this motor come with all of the trimming if nto how much for it all inc looms and acc please pm me a price

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...