Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As per above, I'd just like to get a quick idea on who's done the rear seat removal. I'm getting my rear seat re-trimmed to match my fronts, so I need to remove the bench and backrests to leave with the trimmer.

Is there anything in particular I need to worry about? Are the cables (or whatever) in the luggage area easy to remove and re-install later?

With the door trims, who's replaced the material in the centre of the door cards (I know BITSUS Nigel has done it, anyone else)? I'll eventually have these re-done as well, so I might as well have as much information as possible ready to go for when I need it. I've had the door cards off before when I replaced my speakers, but never actually looked at how the panel holding the fabric is attached...

Thanks in advance!

You can remove the wire for the seat fold down from the side of the seats, there is a little clip on the side, pretty easy.

No idea about the door trims sorry.

Door trims are peice of cake... from memory all you need to do is remove the cover from around the door handle then theres a couple of screws... then the window switch just clips out from the door trim and then you just gently pull around the edges to release the clips, lift it up out of the window and its off!

(edit) sorry just realised you only meant the door cards...

Edited by SHIZNT

Just checked a door trim I had sitting around, the entire trim is one molded piece it seems. Fabric is glued on and pushed into a 1/2 inch groove around the edges at the extremity of the fabric trim.

harts.

just make sure you have a pair of needle-nose pliers handy when you put the rear seat back in: the reclining mechanismhas a little hook on a spring that rectracts a fair way, and can be a little tricky to get out. Otherwise, it's about 5 bolts from memory: mine came out easy, but the guy who bought my interior needed a heap of leverage to grck the top centre bolt...

Overall, it's a pretty easy process: 5 mins to remove, and probably around 10 mins to put it back in.

Cool, thanks for all the replies, gents!

Seat should be getting removed on Sunday arvo, if all goes to plan. I'll be taking some before and after shots too.

  • 1 month later...
  • 10 years later...
On 12/15/2019 at 9:08 PM, KiwiRS4T said:

My C34 was pretty quick with 320awkw - yours should really shift with 388 and should be fun on the track with over 400!

 

On 3/12/2020 at 1:09 PM, Duncan said:

Original factory 260 turbos?

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...