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Rb25 Into 180sx


Ivez
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b4 anyone says use the search ..... i did and i used it on the silvia forum too, its shit becasue theres so mnay bloody topics about the conversion and alot of them have different opinions and suggestions so i dont wanna waste anymore time lookin at threads that are full of shit

i all i wanna know is which crossmember do i use so that i have no bonnet to inlet manifold clearance issues

is it the r32 crossmember or the A31 with r32 engine brackets or vise versa or r32 crossmember and rx7 engine brackets these are just some examples of what i've read

i wanna hear info from sum1 who knows or has done it b4 not from sum1 that has NFI

what i have been also is that i can use r32 crossmember and engine brackets and if im gonna be a tight arse i can use the original CA18 gearbox but replace the bellhousing with an RB20 one and that way i can retain the gearbox crossmember and the ca18 tailshaft is this true

bottom line sick of millions of threads with way too many different options that may or may not work

sum1 plz just tell me what i need that i can use from other nissans as this build is on a budget and its for my mrs so i dont need a bigger or better gearbox just wanna put my rb25 from my r33 into her 180sx using the CA18 drivetrain so i can put my 26/30 in my r33 and so she can stop breaking my balls about the car not being done yet.

any accurate and experienced information would be greatly appreciated

thanx in advance,

Ivez.

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well you can use a31 x member with matching brackets. 32 x member, wouldn't bother.

I used r34 x member and 34 engine brackets with custom nolathane mounts 40mm high.

As for the gearbox i don't know. Personally i know that if you use an RB20 or RB30 gearbox you will not have to modify your tailshaft at all presuming it's a manual tailshaft. 25 box need the 25 yoke on the end of the silvia shaft.

have fun.

Edited by GT-RZ
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A31 X-Member

CA18 Gearbox mounts

RB20 Gearbox

Custom tail shaft

Custom IC piping

Full RB20 Loom from cabin to engine bay

Mate Engine loom with SR/CA loom where AFM is

why the custom tailshaft? silvia manual tailshaft will bolt straight up with an rb20 gearbox. been there, done that. 25 needs custom gearbox x member and the 25yoke in place of the silvia yoke (doing that now)

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where are you located?

Sydney, Lansvale, there's a couple of Jap Wreckers on Chatterton Street, one is run by a bunch of Asians and the other one is run by a bunch of Indians (much cheaper).

The Asians guys are pretty exxy, even tried to bargain in Viet, thought that might of helped LOL.

You can use a R32 X-Member, but I believe the engine sits a tad too high and the cross over pipe touches the bonnet a bit, so either raise the bonnet, or run new plenum, or get Plasma Man piping or a new bonet.

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where are you located?

Sydney, Lansvale, there's a couple of Jap Wreckers on Chatterton Street, one is run by a bunch of Asians and the other one is run by a bunch of Indians (much cheaper).

The Asians guys are pretty exxy, even tried to bargain in Viet, thought that might of helped LOL.

You can use a R32 X-Member, but I believe the engine sits a tad too high and the cross over pipe touches the bonnet a bit, so either raise the bonnet, or run new plenum, or get Plasma Man piping or a new bonet.

sorry i didn't mean to sound offensive! i was just pointing it out then backed up with some past experience! with the 32 x member the front timing cover will hit too. Keep in mind though if you use the a31 or r32 stuff you can slot the engine brackets and let it drop another 5+mm or so.

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i just bought a cheffy x-member and i paid $100 but they are generally around the $200 mark (i wouldn't pay more than that).

I found this thread when i was researching my 25 conversion. I'm not to sure what R33 member that he is talking about as the SI and SII 33 members are different. I think it has to be a SII member and bear in mind that you have to re drill one set of holes on the SII member as they are holes are spaced wider than the holes on the S13 rails. I spoke to some one who was using a SI 33 member with a CA 10mm radiator there was only 5mm between the balancer and the radiator.

http://www.trk-dv.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=101

Edited by D_Stirls
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i just bought a cheffy x-member and i paid $100 but they are generally around the $200 mark (i wouldn't pay more than that).

I found this thread when i was researching my 25 conversion. I'm not to sure what R33 member that he is talking about as the SI and SII 33 members are different. I think it has to be a SII member and bear in mind that you have to re drill one set of holes on the SII member as they are holes are spaced wider than the holes on the S13 rails. I spoke to some one who was using a SI 33 member with a CA 10mm radiator there was only 5mm between the balancer and the radiator.

http://www.trk-dv.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=101

Crap. sorry, but he said not to post rubbish and that is. Are you suggesting the r33 s2 skyline is wider than the s1? No. have a look where the holes are in both cars and you will see they cannot be wider. There is no difference between the s1 and s2 crossmembers (well actually there is and it is that one has 4 spot welds at the top and one has two strip welds... apart from that...

The confusion as always from information being passed down and down is the non turbo and turbo crossmembers. It's just the same as when you read people using r33 turbo x members with r32 brackets - it's impossible.

For further information here is a pic of my engine mounted to a r34 crossmember which is EXACTLY the same as my r33 turbo x member apart from the welds i mentioned earlier :) . no fresh holes drilled either.

post-41232-1252922876_thumb.jpg

It sits on 40mm nolathane mounts and cannot be moved further back on the crossmember for obvious reasons and cannot be moved down any further either as it will hit the steering rack.

Any lower will require you too space the whole crossmember down.

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I only got that from the bloke that said that he was running a SI member because that SII member had to have the holes modded. And i didn't mean that the chassis rails are wider i meant that front to back that are further spaced apart (i.e. east/west is the same but north/south is different). and i have heard that from more than 1 source.

EDIT!!

But having read what i wrote i can see why you though i wrote that the chassis rails were different, which i know they aren't. Anyway for get about what i wrote just look at the link.

EDIT 2!

This is what he actually wrote;

I have used a r33 s1 (s2 doesn't bolt up without modifying the holes. BUT, i plan on trying an r32 crossmember, as I am using a stock Ca18 radiator and slim line fans (on the back) and only have about 5mm clearance on belts. Yet in an issue of HPI, A 180sx with an r32 x member was able to fit a koyo 48 or 52mm (will have to look it up.) and fans on the back, using a r32 one.

On the crossmember Im using cortina style engine mounts, 40mm high straight studed. This fits the stock cross over plenum under my silvia bonnet, I've heard it 180sx maybe slightly lower.

Gearbox i was using an r33 manual crossmember on some 3 hole adapters, which had to be torqued a little to get to line up. Then swapped to an auto r33 one and worked a dream.

Edited by D_Stirls
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the source is full of cow mud then. s2 x member from a Toyota or something :P

R33 s1 and s2 are the same. turbo and non turbo are different. One has a flat mount setup (turbo) and the other has the same style as a 32 with the angled mount.

Anyways just clearing up as this thread was not supposed to be full of cow mud. just facts.

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thats my car ^

with a forward facing plenum, and either cross member the stock bonnet will shut.

I used the r33 S1 cross member in the end. it sits a touch higher, but because my car is a drift car I opted for a little higher for more sump protection.

with the a31 cross member, you can use pretty much any mounts with 1 bolt coming out each side, so infact you can go even lower, if you source smaller mounts.

r33 is more difficult as you would have to redrill the cross member, to accept a more common mount.

If you want my A31 x-member, ill sell it for $150. which is how much I paid for it. and I will throw in rb20 mounts and brackets.

pickup sydney northern beaches.

wiring for rb25 in a silvia is a bitch. you have to splice, add, and remove parts from the loom. if u can find a shop that knows what to do... its worth paying to have it done...

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If the wiring is the same as RB20, I'll be happy to do it :P

I'm guessing it's the same shet.

Radiator wise, I use 2x Davies Craig fans and a R32 GT-R radiator.. did the job, but you will need an oil cooler as well, once the oil goes past 100degrees, watch the water catch up and boil...

I had a GP Sports kit on the front, next to zero airflow, I've seen a few people cut back the radiator support to fit thicker cores, some dude the the number plate GHOST did that.

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R34 X member on my RB with R33 alloy brackets (they looked prettier :P ) sat on 40mm high Nolathane mounts with ONE Bolt straight through the middle.

No drilling, none of this nonsense anywhere. Bolts straight up.

post-41232-1252975663_thumb.jpg

Here is a pic of a R33 turbo member (or series two as some dummies call it- Actual fact there is only two TURBO and NON TURBO)

post-41232-1252976204_thumb.jpg

And here is a pic of the R34 x member

post-41232-1252976248_thumb.jpg

Dimensionally they are one. exactly the same, there is some fabrication differences but apart from that they are the same in every way because i measured them just to check.

So lets forget about the TURBO member (series two as the dummies call it) needing new holes, be it in the chassis or the member itself - rubbish.

The flat mounted style is the TURBO member and the angled mounted style (same as the 32, a31 etc) is the NON TURBO.

PS: You can't go lower with the a31 than the R33 because i am already practically touching the steering rack with it installed and i cannot move backwards either because the rear of the drop section in the sump will hit. as you can see by my earlier post. ONLY way is to drop the whole crossmember now. which would put my sump stupidly close to the floor.

Edited by GT-RZ
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