Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I'm wanting to rebuild my RB25DET, but seeing as how a) it'll take some time and b) it's a daily driver.

What needs to be changed over in a conversion like that? I've got a standard computer and loom, RB20 gearbox, and a 3" exhaust *gulp* and am wanting to go a bog-stock RB30. I've had a soft-spot for NA for a while.. so yeah.

Any help would be awesome, thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287736-rb25det-to-rb-non-turbo/
Share on other sites

You're rebuilding your current engine as in strapping on a RB30 block? Or you want to go either RB25DE or RB30DE? There was/still are a few listings on ebay for a RB25DE reconditioned block, RB25DE 10:1 CR Pistons, the crank and I think a few other bits.

No no. I'm not doing anything flash, just wanting to bust in an engine I can destroy and do it fairly simply, while building my RB25DET to factory standards (yes, that's right. no forged internals)

The idea is to drop in an RB30E or RB25DE while retaining the RB25 loom and all that, so it's a simple conversion back to the 25. but in the mean time, i'm wondering exactly what needs to be changed to run the RB30E.

I gather that i'll need to run the RB30 computer, but is there any similarity that I can utilize between the 25 and 30 which would allow me to retain the 25 loom?

elsewise, it shall be a bigger job than anticipated.

i would be checking on the legal side of things of just putting in a stock rb30e. i don't know if you will be able to do it because you are fitting an older motor to a newer car.

it may be easier to just buy a second hand turbo motor and dropping that in while you do the rebuild. should be able to pick one up reasonably cheaply since you don't need to buy the gearbox, loom (if you get the same series as your current motor), etc. or if your current engine is still going but you just wanted to rebuild it, leave it in there and rebuild the motor you buy. saves the hassle of changing motors twice

I gather that i'll need to run the RB30 computer, but is there any similarity that I can utilize between the 25 and 30 which would allow me to retain the 25 loom?

nup, completely different.

You best bet is RB25DE, which as its only temporary, will run fine even n/a with turbo gear (ecu/loom/sensors/injectors etc) or if you get one with injectors etc, using the N/A ecu on the det loom will be fine, the car will drive perfectly.

pretty sure that's a retarded response. no offense, but check location next time.

thinking i'll wait for another 25det to show itself to me. either build that one or bung it in. problem solvered. thanks dudes.

pretty sure that's a retarded response. no offense, but check location next time.

thinking i'll wait for another 25det to show itself to me. either build that one or bung it in. problem solvered. thanks dudes.

you dont have a location set mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...