Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nothing in the Fords and Holdens are from the production cars. As said before, purpose built 5.0 V8's. The funny thing is, is that the Holden is running a Ford wishbone suspension :P what a surprise, Holden taking someone else's parts.

The reason holdens are running fords wishbone suspention is too slow the holdens down. Holden teams are not doing this by choice, its forced apon them. To me that spells weak compatition... Apart from that, it is good to watch when its raining hard :-}

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If I am correct, the Bathurst 24hr is for production cars, therefore HRT427(the 600hp monaro) would have had 49 replicas sitting in a warehouse somewhere ready for sale(50 being the magic number to qualify as a production run) hence being able to compete in the production class. In order to have a Skyline compete(with 600 hp) against HRT427 in this years race, someone would have to build fifty 600hp Skylines.........I think they also have to be current production, therefore r34's dont qualify.

Feel free to prove me wrong, this is just the way i see it

I don't know what the rules are but I read that HRT made only 2 of those 427's with a view to building them for general consumption but when they did their figures the cars would have cost $200k and no matter how much you love holdens you're not going to spend that much money on one.

Maybe they did the dodgy and said they were "going to" build at least 50 cars...

The HRT427 was never a homologation special of the Monaro CV8R or whatever that thing is called and if the GT500 GT-R is more closely related to the road going GT-R it is based on than the Monaro vs. the Monaro racecar then I am a monkey's uncle. Just look at it!

tm023m.jpg

sigh, the monaro 427 is completely legitimate. It just has a stroked and bored stock engine, it is not the supercar that holden were planning on making, just a regular monaro with a massiver engine in it. Oddly enough the only thing in that car that is from a monaro is the shell. The race was clearly in favour of the monaros though, the rx7s had to run less than stock boost yet the monaros were able to increase their engine displacement to 7 ltres... bs fair competition

They got 77 cubic inches by boring and stroking the 350 chev?!?!?!?!?!

Anything with a turbo should be able to run whatever boost they like. Maybe they'll start whacking turbos on the v8's then. They're gonna have to start using overhead cams if they do, and maybe a few more valves too.

and procar were very clear that nations cup is "GT Racing" not production car. There is 0 requirement for road going versions of the cars.

Which is kinda handy for holden, as usual :)

the ultimate bogan mobile was given special dispensation to represent Aus in the Nations Cup (kinda based on who's the best country) but even the R33 GTS25t has to race in nations cup class, and not GTP where it would nicely match the V8's and AWD cars.

sigh, the monaro 427 is completely legitimate. It just has a stroked and bored stock engine,
350 bored and stroked to 427? pfft whatever mate....a 427 is a big block...350 is a small block....very hard if not impossible to bore/stroke a 350 to 427....
it is not the supercar that holden were planning on making, just a regular monaro with a massiver engine in it.

It is entirely a V8 Supercar, except for the fact that it has the big block.....

Oddly enough the only thing in that car that is from a monaro is the shell.
True....

http://www.ls1speed.com/engine12.cfm

Search on Google, there are 100 places in America that can build you a nice 427ci LS1 from off the shelf Chev bits and I know this may be difficult to understand, but a small block engine is a small block engine no matter how big you stroke it... It isn't a big block, unless it is a big block.

http://www.ls1speed.com/engine12.cfm

Search on Google, there are 100 places in America that can build you a nice 427ci LS1 from off the shelf Chev bits and I know this may be difficult to understand, but a small block engine is a small block engine no matter how big you stroke it... It isn't a big block, unless it is a big block.

was not aware you could take a 350 that far....largest ive seen was just under 400...(390 summin) wonder how much of the block is left after going that far with one?

It is alloy so it is resleeved and it is stroked to within an inch of its life.

Imagine a RB32DETT :D

But there is lots of legit things to criticise about the Monaro, personally I don't care too much about the tech spec, I like high tech super modified race cars. I don't like it when they run around with no competition, doesn't matter if it is a Monaro or a GT-R. It just gets boring. They need to get serious and penalise the Monaro to make it a fair competition.

Most of the Holden teams are happy enough to run the ford Double Wishbone suspension as it gives them more tunability than the holden single wishbone. It's not designed to make anyone slower or faster, just to even things up... Basically they are just falcadore shells with pure race machinery underneath anyway.

Some people are comparing bananas with apples here... Some people are talking about Nations cup, others GTP and some are getting that confused with V8SC. They are 3 different formulas, GTP being the closet to road going formula, Nations cup full of exotic supercars, and V8 supercar a pure racing category.

Most of the japanese sports cars run in GTP class A, STi, Evo, etc... S15 runs class B i think with the 350Z (not 100% though) so yea...

He he he, i just watched the 86-92 bathurst turbulent years DVD. Very cool stuff. The R32s gave them a good old spanking in 91 and 92 (The seriously wet one). The days of the GTS-R were pretty much ruled by the sierras. They were dam quick. I think holden won 2 out of the 6 races in that perriod, id have to watch it again to confirm though. Good DVD though. Some very sweet in-car shots.

Cheers

And where in there would you suggest a rwd or awd with the capacity of around 2.5l plus turbo? Certainly not in nations cup with a boost limit when the monaro gets open slather.

I think this is all starting to get to the crux of the issue, the corrupt attitude and actions of Cretins Against Motor Sport (CAMS) who allow this stuff to happen even though they are Aus motorsport "governing body". They've been P***ing me off for almost 20 years, ever since they scrapped group G rally.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...