Jump to content
SAU Community

Timing Belt, Question For The Mechanically Minded

haleja

By haleja,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

PUDZ 32R Enthusiast

PUDZ 32R

Posted
Posted

no slap up job. just quick and easy and having done it 3 times on mates motors helps out a lot 2.

oh and please explain how it is possible to do a slap up job on a timing belt??

haleja Contributor

haleja

Posted
  • Author
Posted

you raise a good point, if it aint on properly its gonna go boom (if you have no valve clearance anywho)

ironically, my gfs MR2's thermostat shat its self on the weekend. did you know that if your boil your coolant the radiator cap whistles like a kettle? lol

- and PUDZ, why not replace the bearings?

PUDZ 32R Enthusiast

PUDZ 32R

Posted
Posted

the bearings will be replaced at 130k. i did the belt at 90k. whoever had the car before me hadnt done anything so it was a heap of preventative maintenence to start with. bearings were running ok so i figured they could wait. i am going to re-do the belt at 130k and do bearings as well.

maybe not everyone agrees with this way of doing it but looking at the condition of everything when i got it i decided this was the best at the time.

  • 1 month later...
Ziller Rising Star

Ziller

Posted
Posted
no slap up job. just quick and easy and having done it 3 times on mates motors helps out a lot 2.

oh and please explain how it is possible to do a slap up job on a timing belt??

I had new Tomei cam gears, Idler bearings and a Gates timing belt installed along with a new N1 water pump installed, before i even picked up the car, they had to replace the idler bearings again, said one was faulty, around 7500kms later the cam gears look worn out, the belt was as stiff as a board and way to tight, you should be able to twist it 90 degrease.

Also coolants can play a big role in the life of you water pump, and engine, i have seen corrosion test done on water pumps and some of the more expensive coolants failed the test reducing the pumps flow output's, the wynns brand was by far the best, factory coolants would be my choice.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • tylink720
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By tylink720 · Posted

      @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • Watermouse
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Watermouse · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • GTSBoy
      Airbox for +T

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...