Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Ive got my car booked in to the workshop to try sort out why my car pings and basically their first solution is to put a custom oil catch can on there to stop possible blow by. Just before i go down that avenue of spending dosh on something that may or may not fix my issue i would like some feedback from the gurus. Basically the issue is the car will NOT knock over ~17 on dyno/road driven to red line. However everynow and then it will get one ping rangeing from 60-90. It always gets only one ping and my tuner said he could hear it through the ear phones. The thing is even when he took 2 degrees of timing now running 340rwhp it didnt make a difference. It still get inconsistent ping.

Brief list of mods

pfc

gt3076 iw 0.82

zaust - split dump, de cat

eboost 2 running 19psi

pod

fmic

bosch 044

z32 afm

And yes i only put in bp 98 octane. Ive attached a dyno so you can see air fuel ratio

Its a late friday arvo so if i forgotten crucial info let me know. :cool:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288535-inconsistent-knock-powerfc/
Share on other sites

Why is the intake temp 50 degrees?

Anyway... do you have a blowby problem?

Is it the same spot the ping occurs? Same/similar rpm and/or load perhaps? (could be a slightly off cell in the tune).

Blocked fuel filter maybe, although doesnt sound like it

Why is the intake temp 50 degrees?

Anyway... do you have a blowby problem?

Is it the same spot the ping occurs? Same/similar rpm and/or load perhaps? (could be a slightly off cell in the tune).

Blocked fuel filter maybe, although doesnt sound like it

I dont know about the intake temp or if it indeed does have a blowby problem. That was just brought up as a possible explaination.

Yeah it generally pings aroung 6200rpm and up but as i said it does that only rarely

Why is the intake temp 50 degrees?

I have the same problem with my intake is always sitting around 50 degrees.

I'm thinking it must be my cooler.

It has the standard end tanks and a custom core. (was like this when i bought the car)

But my knock readings are not high at all

What do you think Nismoid

you will have one or two cells that are too high

when you drive it on the road yourself you typically drive it different to how the operator plonks it on the dyno and does a WOT power run

my advice is take on the street with datalogit plugged in logging the map cells and knocking (knock map)

then youll find the 1 or 2 offending cells, you can take out 2deg in those specific cells and youll be fine

find someone local in perth with datalogit, drive around knock watch and youll see it

or get your tuner to do this for you - but he will charge you

I dont know about the intake temp or if it indeed does have a blowby problem. That was just brought up as a possible explaination.

Yeah it generally pings aroung 6200rpm and up but as i said it does that only rarely

Well if it is around the same spot - then that can only be the tune really. Or similar issue with a coil pack dropping out or something similar triggering the knock.

I have the same problem with my intake is always sitting around 50 degrees.

I'm thinking it must be my cooler.

It has the standard end tanks and a custom core. (was like this when i bought the car)

But my knock readings are not high at all

What do you think Nismoid

stock GTR temp sensor?

its taking heat from the plenum, they all do it so it reads high, but isn't.

should post up your timing map, most tuners only adjust the traced cells and ignore the rest because they cbf the rest, on a dyno it may not load into those cells but on the road wham you might load up cell N15, P16 and pow, knock... because it's got some silly value against it.

unless he was having a bad day i doubt it. i've had my car tuned at hyperdrive a few times and andy usually does a good job of smoothing out the map. altho looking at your dyno graph he hasnt added as much fuel around peak torque as usual

i had the exact same thing when i got my car tuned last, made 360 on one run but he thought it was a bit too unsafe so knocked some timing out and back down to 330

like i said, i can do a knock log for you with datalogit and find where its pinging

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep I will use a guide coat after putting filler, I will do it on the whole panel as I'm a beginner so chances I've made quite a few errors. In that photo, I think that was a low spot, I just for example said to pretend it's flat but I will put filler + guide coat after to assess where I'm at. Yep with that picture, the panel is wet as it rained when I took the photo. But all those scratches are completely smooth, I went over it with 240 grit and can't feel it, even with my nail digging into it. I was legit thinking to buy a 2k can and spray primer to see how it turns out but then thought to myself it's going to be a mess doing it haha. Good mention there. Thanks for all that info I think I know what to do next.
    • Prior to laying down the primer, you need to make sure the surface is completely level. For example, based on this picture, I strongly suspect that the areas marked in blue are higher then the area marked in green.  If you spray primer over this entire area, then paint and clear it, the finished result will 100% show the low area. It will stick out like dogs balls. Unfortunately the paint won't magically level out the low areas as you lay it down.  Without seeing it in person, I expect that the green area will need to be filled, then use a guide coat and check that the entire repair area is level with a large sanding block.  With this picture, are you saying that even though you can see the scratches, the panel is in fact completely smooth and flat? If this is the case sure you could prep and paint it as it is.     The picture with the paint you described as blistering, it's hard for me to comment on from the photo alone. It looks like the panel is wet? Dunno, looks strange. Does the panel feel as smooth as glass when you run your hand over it? **** Going back to your question again, generally you would only sand the primer if you made a mistake while laying down the primer.  If the panel is prepped properly and you lay the primer down properly, you should not need to sand the primer.  This wouldn't work - Don't prep the panel. Spray primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas where the issues appear. Spray more primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas....... Yeah you'd go round and round in circles getting no where. 
    • That's sick, thanks for that, mine has much the same mods on a 400R. I just don't have the heat exchanger yet.   Might be worth a trip down the M1 to Syndey for a tune.
    • Mate , this is the current mods list Current Mods list (Installed) RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Cat Back  RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Front Pipe AMS  - INFINITI Q50/Q60 RED ALPHA COLD AIR INTAKE KIT AMS  - Performance Heat Exchanger Intercooler AMS Alpha Performance Full Race Down Pipes ECUTEK tune form TuneHouse in Sydney .(Just over 2k) The car came with HKS - Power Editor but I had it removed for the full tune. I would say if you are using the car for street diving a proper tune would be better.    
    • Interested to see any videos of this or on the dyno. Mine currently has HKS secondary cats i am undecided if I want to remove them. What did it set you back to get the tube done? And what mods have you got to get that power? I was looking at a racebox flash tune but maybe a proper tune would be better if these guys are good.
×
×
  • Create New...