Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone else had troubles with the idle quality of their car after fitting power fc?

Since fitting mine, it has a tendancy to hunt. Mainly when coming back in revs, and it will settle down after a while - but initially it is pretty poor.

I dont believe it is the decelleration fuel cut recovery rpm setting, as I have tried different settings with no avail. The car will idle smoothly if left long enough at idle, so I dont think it is the AAC valve either?

Has anyone else has had this problem, and had any luck with fixing it?

Cheers

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28874-poor-idle-with-power-fc/
Share on other sites

I've got the same problem, although it is still better than the stock ECU. Sometimes it will die soon after starting, and I have to give the accelerator pedal a few pumps to get it to idle properly for maybe 10 seconds or so when cold. But it's not always like this when cold for some reason.

My idle setting doesn't seem to do anything either, the car seems to idle wherever it likes, and it changes every so often up or down. I might have a faulty idle control motor or something.

Unrelated id say.

Shitty idle most likely due to 0/2 Feedback still being on, makes idle pretty crap turn that off and idle will be great.

<----------------- how is this done??? how can u turn it off. soz dont know much about this topic but im interested. and finally how much can a PFC get picked up for brand new/ second hand

cheers

If you turn off your 02 feedback, it could result in worse economy.

02 feedback is used for closed loop running, such as cruise or idle - it will try and get the mixtures as lean as possible - AFAIK

I tried switching off 02 feedback, and it made no difference. This is something that happened as soon as the power fc was plugged in. with stock ecu it was fine. Cant run stock ecu anymore though, as I have injectors and afm upgrade.

Hmm, I can't see how your economy wouldn't suffer from turning that off. My idle isn't bad enough that I'm willing to sacrifice economy. I think I'll leave it on.

Maybe the O2 sensor is faulty? Or would the PowerFC detect the fault and give you a warning light? I'm sure mine is fixable without sacrificing economy, it probably just needs a professional to tune correctly.

I have a really bad idle problem which occurs at all different times. It will start surging from 400rpm to 2500rpm and after a while stall. I think mine is a vacuum leak somewhere coz it happened about a week after i drove with the pfc.

I havent driven my car for 7 weeks anyway, being built plus i am away for work, so hopefully i can sus the problem out when the new turbo etc finially goes on and i actually get to drive my car again.

After getting my Power Fc I noticed this a bit to. It does not idle as high when cold and then idles higher when warm. The factory ECU would idle at about 1400 RPM when cold and drop to 800 when warm. The FC idles at about 1200 RPM when cold but after about 30 seconds it drops to 1000 RPM and stays there. Ive also noticed it sometime varies its idle speed by 100 or so RPM. Not something I worry about but it just caught my attention.

INASNT I did the 30 minute idle thing and it seemed ok, but then it started to have a mind of its own. Is there a way to reset the idle self-learning thing again without reseting the whole unit?

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
×
×
  • Create New...