Rb26, What To Put In?

[Patrick88]

Sadly my gtr after owning for a short time decided to do a big end bearing (what it sounds like). The motor is being looked at as we speak and should have the results of what actually went wrong mid week.

So i had plans to build the engine later on down the track to get more reliable power out of it, unfortunatly the plans have been brought forwards a bit and now i am deciding on what to put in it.

I am going to be putting pistons, sump baffle, not sure if rods are necessary as they have been proven in high hp cars, not really sure on what else needs to be included, have been reading a fair bit but there are a few conflicting opinions.

I want to adress the oil problems that come with the early rb26 (32 1990), i will be putting a baffle in and have read about the welsh plugs at the back of the head that one can be used as another directs drain back to the sump. opinions? other fixes?

What i am after is what you would put and modify in your engine, not going crazy as i am only 18 and not on massive income.

Any advice would be appreciated!

Patrick

Edited September 21, 2009 by Patrick88

[Ashy Larry]

Patrick,

There is a lot of write ups in the Forced Induction section on the main SAU forums.

It all comes down to money at the end of the day.

Lay out a plan of what you will want to use the car for.

Work out what parts will be required to achieve the above mission and then go from there,

Hopefully that can steer you in a direction in regards to budget.

There are a few super tough GTR's kicking around Perth.

So I am sure you will get a ton of good advice.

Also research who you will build with.

Mike

[bubba]

Go have a look in the Forced Induction area..

[Bok boK GuN]

Depending on your budget, power goal and purpose of use ( Track or drag or street ), there are many combinations to choose from...

As for the extended sump, try looking at the High Octance Racing ones...

[Patrick88]

Have been looking through there and will keep looking.

cheers

Also will be a weekend car, with the occasional trackday/drag

Edited September 21, 2009 by Patrick88

[bubba]

Personally, I'd be putting a 30 bottom end in there but some people are purists

[monga]

Personally, I'd be putting a 30 bottom end in there but some people are purists

Bubba, I'm yet to find a post which does not relate to your RB30 somehow dude lol. Patrick, if you are looking doing it reasonably cheap this might help

Arias Pistons + Rings or CP

Eagle Rods or Pauter

N1 Oil Pump

ACL Bearings

Crank machined

Tomei oil restrictor

ARP headstuds

Hi Octane baffle kit

Head PnP

Block Machined

Metal Headgasket

Shouldn't cost more than $8,000 to $10,000 drive in drive out.

Edited September 21, 2009 by monga

[ahh 33 s2]

hahah agreed^^

id go for a spool package..

cps

spool rods

acl mains and big ends and HG

comes in a package

and then

N1 pump

and a standard head re build

get a crank collar

arp heads

tomei restrictor

standard or n1 water pump

and then the appropriate block work

trust sump extension maybe

and maybe some GTss or 2530 or equivelent

Dan

[sickr33]

sorry to hear that but very same thing happened to me but was due to the sock harmonic balancer splitting and damaging the crank nose

this is what i did

BOTTOM END

bored

honed

acid dipped $500

Arias pistons

Eagle rods $2000

king bearings (meant to be more forgiving than ALC) not sure $400

ALC piston rings $400

N1 oil pump $600

Tomei oil restriction $15

Tomei sump baffles $300

Ross harmonic balancer $700

had crank, rods, pistons, flywheel and clutch all balanced

ACL race series gasket kit 1.3mm metal head gasket. $500

Nismo mounts $400

HEAD

if you are short on cash you don't need to do this.

Full head rebuild

line bored

oil galleys bored

New valves

15 hours of port polish

Crack tested

Pressure tested

volume marched (also known an CC'ed)

Gates racing cam gears

Gates racing timing belt

Tomie pon cams 260/9.15

Spring tensions tested

New valve guides

Cam covers sprayed bayside blue

OTHER

GT2860-5 turbos

hks 100mm intercooler

HKS actuators

SS manifolds

SS dumps

Apexi PFC

Sard 700CC injectors

all pricing is off the top of my head so are approx

head aprox 5k

bottom end aprox 7k (bullet proof)

extras aprox 7k

expensive yes

but what made it ALOT cheaper i built the hole thing my self with the help of my dad

i has south side engine center do all the machining for me and endless amounts of advice.

Hope this helps i have only put prices for what i recommend you do only do the other stuff if you can afford it

if you what to talk to some one that has just done it them selves for help and or advice give me a call

0433708054

cheers Ryan

[monga]

Re use 20 year old pistons? Also Eagle rods are about half that price dude My first Eagle set cost $1100 or something. Also, all the machining is a must regardless, as you can't smash another set of 86mm again.

Edited September 26, 2009 by monga

[sickr33]

Piston and rod pack with pins for $2000

sorry should have been more clear

[R32 Driver]

Personally, I'd be putting a 30 bottom end in there but some people are purists

I've been meaning to ask you this bubba since your a DIYer and all

Which machine shop do you use?

and do you double check there work/clearances?

Thanks

Bubba, I'm yet to find a post which does not relate to your RB30 somehow dude lol. Patrick, if you are looking doing it reasonably cheap this might help

Arias Pistons + Rings or CP

Eagle Rods or Pauter

N1 Oil Pump

ACL Bearings

Crank machined

Tomei oil restrictor

ARP headstuds

Hi Octane baffle kit

Head PnP

Block Machined

Metal Headgasket

Shouldn't cost more than $8,000 to $10,000 drive in drive out.

I agree with most beside the Head PnP (sub 500hp not required)

Add a gasket rebuild kit and water pump

[Patrick88]

Cheers for the advice guys. Havnt been on here for a while hence no replys.

So what i am probly doing is,

CP pistons + rings

Crank linished

Fully balanced bottom end

Keep rods, if in good condish polish or shot peen

acl bearings

n1 oil pump

New water pump

Sump baffle

Oil restrictor

Maybe arp headstuds

ACL Full gasket kit

Not to sure on what the head needs as the engine is being started later this week and still dont really know what condish everything is in.

I have been reading about a oil return you can do with the spare welsh plug at the back of the head. Run a oil line from there back down to the left sump wing. Helps drain the oil back down, also not sure what the go is with the crank collar, Any advice?

Am getting 2860r -5's, new fuel pump, Boost controller then a nistune.

Should have some fun with that combo after run in for a while. Then new tires , injectors and re tune get more out of it.

I think haha

thoughts?

Also how hard could you push this combo?

Edited September 29, 2009 by Patrick88

[R32 Driver]

by the time you prep the stock rods and get arp bolts

it already half way to a set of eagles might be worth the extra 300-400

[bubba]

I've been meaning to ask you this bubba since your a DIYer and all

Which machine shop do you use?

and do you double check there work/clearances?

Thanks

Whoever my mechanic mate uses (there's only two and it's not Southside) and yes we do double check clearances before final assembly.

P.S. don't use N1 oil pump.. I've jsut removed mine and not happy with the amount of wear after 10,000 odd km of moderate use (lots of abuse but not a lot of power).

I am going to be trialing a set of "splined" oil pump gears for my N1 pump from a trusty member over east, if all goes well he will be supplying to the public.

I also run NDC bearings, quality jap stuff that doesn't cost the earth.

Spool rods, cost me $750 but should handle +500rwhp quite easily.

A GOOD harmonic balancer, personally I have an ATI 1000hp unit to go on.

[R32 Driver]

Thanks for the info Bubba

judging by the amount of people using spool rods 500 would be a walk in the park

JPC make a 4340 billet gear for n1 pumps @ $350

might be a cheaper/faster option compared to the spline gears as we dont know how long it would take to make/test/etc

[bubba]

Thanks for the info Bubba

judging by the amount of people using spool rods 500 would be a walk in the park

JPC make a 4340 billet gear for n1 pumps @ $350

might be a cheaper/faster option compared to the spline gears as we dont know how long it would take to make/test/etc

No probs

I'm really not a fan of the stock oil pump drive setup.. I feel more comfortable trialing the splined drive gears than reusing my N1 pump with the same as stock drive setup.

I should have my splined gears in a week (fingers crossed) and then the testing will begin

[R32 Driver]

Keep us updated with the testing

Im interested in them but to scared to trial lol

Good luck with it