Jump to content
SAU Community

Product Review - Hankook Ventus Sport K104 tyres

R32GTR
 Share

Recommended Posts

R32GTR Enthusiast

R32GTR

Posted
Posted

Product-----Hankook Ventus Sport K104 tyres

Tyre size----235/45/17

Rim size-----9 inch

Vehicle------93 R32 GTR

Price--------$170 each

Location-----Brisbane / Queensland

Compared against-Yokohama AVS 245/45/17

------------------Falken Ziex 326 235/45/17

Overall Rating 9/10 ****

A couple of months ago I had to replace the tyres on my GTR. I was running Yokohama AVS 245/45/17 all round but due to a lot of negative camber they had worn out on one side after 10 000 K. I liked these tyres so priced some new ones and was quoted $360 each for equivalent replacements. As I had just spent a small fortune replacing all the brake rotors I knew the budget wasn't going to stretch that far this time around so I did some research for some less expensive ones. After a lot of debating I finally ended up with the Hankook Ventus K104 in a 235/45/17 size at each corner. I wasn't expecting much form them considering the price however I have been VERY pleasantly surprised by just how good they are. This is only the third set of tyres I have had on the car so I haven't a lot to compare against but these are the best of the bunch so far. First tyres were 235/45/17 Falken 326. These tyres are absolute rubbish!! Wouldn’t put them on any car that has any performance traits. Slippery in the dry dangerous in the wet (even with 4wd). They were supplied by the compliance so after about 1000k I got rid of them. They were replaced by the Yokohama's which are a great tyre but very noisy and the car tram lined very badly with them. On top of that they wore out very quickly.

The Hankook's are nice and quiet and have as much grip as the Yokohamas did (maybe more). They cured my tramlining completely and cost about half the price of the Yoko's. The wife will also now hop into the GTR because they are much more comfortable than either of the other two. They are not quite as good as the Yokohama's in the wet but this doesn't worry me much cos I feel if you are racing in the wet you're going to get in trouble anyway. Normal wet driving (not trying to get it sideways) is no problem. So there you have it a real bargain that sticks it the "big names". Oh and they are Y speed rated as well (300k/h). So if you have a R32 GTR and want some cheapies that have good performance you can't really go past them.

------------Price----Grip Dry----Grip Wet----Durability----Comfort

Falken--------6---------3-----------1---------- ?---------- 6

Yokohama----3---------8------------9----------4---------- 4

Hankook----- 9---------8.5----------7----------?-----------7

R32GTR Enthusiast

R32GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys.

I got them throught a small dealer in Aspley. Not sure if I am allowed to give them a plug so PM me if you want to know. I didn't shop around once I made the decision to go with the Hankooks so I'm not sure if you can get better prices or not.

I know the 245/40/17 was a lot more expensive for the same tyre - around $240 I think.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted
I too have these not sure if they're the same model but do know they are hancook ventus.

they're definately the goods, will be getting them again

ps. duncan, I went in cicles for about 1 and a half hours following that link :D

oops, I meant:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=28744

  • 1 year later...
$nightcrawler Rookie

$nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

Just bought four 235/45 17" Hankook K104s, since everyone is raving on about this particular tyre.

I havn't yet tested them in wet conditions but they seem like a very comfortable drive, and arn't noisy.

Got them from Jax, rang a few different stores and they all varied in prices! some had the tyres for $30 more!.. Got them for $169 each after some negotiations biggrin.gif also did my wheel alightment front and rears.

Seems like a good tyre so far.. they are rated Y grade and have silica compound too!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...