Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok now we have a few people in here so I have one simple question. I am an electronics person so installation is of no concern. So what are the average price of some of the diffrent setups and what is the average tuning cost.

Like I said if someone wants to use my car as a tester I'm happy to install everything if the cost is reduced for research purposes

remap + piggyback (safc + sitc) = 240kw at the rears

series 1 auto see Toshi, series 2 auto go nistune

piggybacks are going in a weeks time, in goes the AEM F/IC-8 ...... insane piece of hardware

3 areas of mapping, 22x17 pc maps for air:fuel, ignition timing & injectors.

dropping in the S15 silvia 450cc injectors, they are 20% larger than the 370cc stock injectors.

100% duty cycle sees 240rwkw from 370cc and patched air:fuel, ign.timing via the limited safc/sitc

the 450's will see 260rwkw plus

simply due to the complete 1000 spots for adjustment on the pc in air:fuel, ign.time & injectors

have a research, the best value for money as a ecu with the stagea is the AEM F/IC-8

Im soooo looking forward to the tune on the 8th oct, with my $100 laptop and $50 nissan consult datascan unit/software, free F/IC tune software, I'll be able to road tune

dyno first then some changes to the mapping on the road, the F/IC-8 logs everything so you can replay the drive and touchup "on the fly" after !

is there anywhere in austalia that sells these or is it something that i need to buy from america direct?? and just to be sure this is a piggy back not a stand alone yer??

just out of curiosity are you only going this way because no one in australia can tune haltechs??

The Nistune is not equivalent to the Jaycar DFA. The Jaycar DFA alters the airfuel ratios in the same way that the Apexi SAFC does. But the Nistune is a chip which sits inside the stock ecu and enables most of the important parameters to be adjusted - airfuel ratios, timing, rev limits, max speed (gets rid of the 180km/hr limit) etc - so for less than the price of a DFA and SITC it does more. However it is not available for the S1 and I suspect will not be for some time to come.

Re Duncan's suggestion of the S2 ecu in a S1 - by the time my tuner had finished piggybacking an R32 ecu on my S1 he too was wondering whether it would have been easier to get a s2 loom and ecu. I look forward to seeing someone try it!

cheers mate :domokun:

steven you have a manual and if you planning on chasing more power in the future go for a powerfc, haltech, or one of the plugin versions of the vipec units. nistune is a popular option for the S2 because it retains the auto controls, which you don't need to worry about. the setup tangles is talking about is for a S1 auto which is limited to tuning options.

as for the flat spot have you considered the VVT change over. its around 4500-5000rpm and i'd think the ecu would slightly knock some of the power back for the change over. i thought its was quite common to see the characteristic VVT flat spot on RB25 dyno charts around that rpm? i've noticed that my car pulls harder after about 5000rpm but no really noticeable flat spot. i have turbo back exhaust, filter, and running ~12psi, i don't hit any cuts or R&R.

Edited by QWK32

so where in sa will i find a nistune or will i have to buy on net? also installers/tuners any sugestions for who dose a really good job oh and price? btw sorry if its been mentioned already.

Edited by fat_stag
so where in sa will i find a nistune or will i have to buy on net? also installers/tuners any sugestions for who dose a really good job oh and price? btw sorry if its been mentioned already.

http://www.nistune.com/

there is a list on dealer/installers on the site.

The Nistune is not equivalent to the Jaycar DFA. The Jaycar DFA alters the airfuel ratios in the same way that the Apexi SAFC does. But the Nistune is a chip which sits inside the stock ecu and enables most of the important parameters to be adjusted - airfuel ratios, timing, rev limits, max speed (gets rid of the 180km/hr limit) etc - so for less than the price of a DFA and SITC it does more. However it is not available for the S1 and I suspect will not be for some time to come.

Re Duncan's suggestion of the S2 ecu in a S1 - by the time my tuner had finished piggybacking an R32 ecu on my S1 he too was wondering whether it would have been easier to get a s2 loom and ecu. I look forward to seeing someone try it!

How come you went R32 over Z32? do you miss the VCT?

steven you have a manual and if you planning on chasing more power in the future go for a powerfc, haltech, or one of the plugin versions of the vipec units. nistune is a popular option for the S2 because it retains the auto controls, which you don't need to worry about. the setup tangles is talking about is for a S1 auto which is limited to tuning options.

as for the flat spot have you considered the VVT change over. its around 4500-5000rpm and i'd think the ecu would slightly knock some of the power back for the change over. i thought its was quite common to see the characteristic VVT flat spot on RB25 dyno charts around that rpm? i've noticed that my car pulls harder after about 5000rpm but no really noticeable flat spot. i have turbo back exhaust, filter, and running ~12psi, i don't hit any cuts or R&R.

NisTune is great because it ( A )- Looks Stock, ( B ) Has stock everything, but can be changed... don't have to worry about knock etc, ECU detects it, it goes into save motor mode... Lift the speed, rev, boost, airflow cuts, do the fuel/timing map, enjoy... and no one is the wiser... I don't see why a PowerFc would be soooo much better...

If I'm going to change ecu it's a simple decision to go with the haltech,They are top notch in all aspects except no one can tune them. Both my celicas had haltechs and I didn't have any issues until I wanted to get a better tune.( in the defence of the people who say they can tune haltechs both engines were something they probably had never seen) I read today that they now make an r32/33 plug in. hopefully will be available for the stag/r34 soon then all the issues would be sorted.

AUSTRALIA - SA

BoostWorx

57 Boothby, Panorama, SA

Contact Shaun on (08) 8299 0621

Shaun has tuned many Nissans using NIStune. He's somewhat of a Skyline man, but also works on CA's, SR's etc.

bstworx [at] bigpond.net.au

Classic Performance Dyno Centre

33 Chapman Rd, Hackham

Contact Ashley on (08) 8384 2899 / 0409 743 219

ashley [at] classicperformance.com.au

www.classicperformance.com.au

Ultimately knowledgeable on Nissan ECU tuning. Very thorough too - you certainly won't end up with a "half tuned" engine if you go to Ashley. He likes 'em all - CA, RB, SR, VG and even does the VH45.

Horse Power In A Box

Unit 6/25 Roxburgh Ave, Lonsdale

Contact Morrie on (08) 8463 0913

info [at] horsepowerinabox.com

http://www.horsepowerinabox.com

Morpowa Auto and Dyno Centre

14 Famechon Crescent, Modbury North, SA

Contact Simon on (08) 8264 2077

simon [at] morpowa.com.au

These guys have a wealth of tuning experience and first class facilities. Peter from PLMS does most of his tuning using their dyno.

Turbo Tune

959 South Road, Melrose Park, SA

Contact Michael on (08) 8297 1030

got these off nistune for SA dealers. anyone had anythin to do with any of these guys? if so how did you find them to deal with.

AUSTRALIA - QLD

EFI Performance

Unit 3/15 Emeri St Stapylton 4207

Contact Rick on (07) 3801 80 75

rick.w [at] efiperformance.com.au

http://www.efiperformance.com.au

East Coast Customs

2/14 Boothby Street, Kedron, QLD

Contact Rob on (07) 3359 5466

info [at] eccustoms.com

http://www.eccustoms.com

Fabians Mechanical

Shed 2, 29 Hyne St, Gympie, QLD

Contact Graham at mech [at ]fabian.net.au

http://www.fabian.net.au

K-Tune

5/8 John Duncan Court, Varsity Lakes, Gold Coast, QLD 4227

Contact Keith on (07) 55221115

http://www.k-tune.com.au

Stu Cornall Tuning Services

48 Old Maryborough Road, Pialba, QLD

Ph 0411 260 656 24hrs 7days

skyline_stu [at] optusnet.com.au

Available to NIStune ALL over Queensland. Extensive Nissan ECU tuning experience

oh yea and these for QLD steven if you decide to go that way in the end and they might be able to help you with anythin else who knows.

NisTune is great because it ( A )- Looks Stock, ( B ) Has stock everything, but can be changed... don't have to worry about knock etc, ECU detects it, it goes into save motor mode... Lift the speed, rev, boost, airflow cuts, do the fuel/timing map, enjoy... and no one is the wiser... I don't see why a PowerFc would be soooo much better...

i didn't say powerfc was so much better, id actually go the haltech or vipec over the powerfc anyway, more tuning options. the advantage the powerfc has over the nistune is that every second person can tune a powerfc, nistune isn't as familiar to tuners, that plus the fact that you need to trust the tuner really knows what he is doing with CB soldering with the nistune. you also have to keep in mind that qld isnt like defectoria, we dont have to worry about epa and having a stock ecu, so we can get away with running full aftermarket ecu. personally i think nistune is awsome, and nistune is the best option for me (S2 auto) so thats what i'll be doing, but with a manual there are better options if your after a more modified setup.

In case of any confusion the Link is the same as the Vipec. I believe one member has a Link (or Vipec) installed in a S2 Stagea successfully running the auto. My theory is that the wire-in version should work on an S1 but having just spent months and not a few dollars getting a chipped R32 ecu piggybacked on to mine i am waiting for someone else to be the guinea pig!

unless the link has logic to control the auto trans shifts....it is no different to any other aftermarket ECU. ie in the long term it is likely to cause damage to the transmision due to full power shifting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...