Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good day guys,

I remember reading a thread some time ago about someone wanting to modify their dump pipe for a GT3076R and there were some very useful photos included there...i can't seem to find the thread after 2 hours of searching...can someone point me to that post if possible? I'm having boost spiking issues with me 3076 on a 2JZ and i suspect it could be due to my dump pipe design...

Cheers.

got a pic of your dump? i have a bellmouth style dump on my iw3076 and boost control is fine, altho i think its creating way too much turbulence, considering making a split dump for it.

Boost spike?

Are you sure its not boost dropping off?

A spike is a really quick spike of boost not where it peaks up through mid range and drops off at top end. Typically related to preload being way too high or a cheap bleed valve.

If your running IW don't expect spectacular boost control if your trying to push more than 2-3psi more than the actuator is rated at. The same goes for the GT35 IW's.

Best bet for the GT30.. Throw an actuator on it that is rated for the boost level you intend to run of which with cams on pump fuel is around 18-20psi. E85 up to 25psi.

If you dont boost WILL peak up then tail off really quick to a couple of psi (if that) above what the actuator is rated to.

Edited by SLAPS

Yeah...it is spiking or should i say climbing uncontrollably...i'm trying to keep at at 15-16psi but it just shoots up to 20+ regardless...i even disconnected the actuator arm to see if it was actuator related but its not...boost still shoots way up so that rules out the wastegate...the flap also opens fully so its not that...therefore its pointing to the custom CES style split dump somehow not scavenging the wastegate gases fast enough...it seems that most people running 3076s are running a bell mouth type dump too which might be my next step...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...