Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just wondering if anyone has some coilpacks i could borrow to test out if my problem is indeed my coilpacks.

It's a series 1.5 so I would be looking for series 2 coilpacks, and if it is my coilpacks i'll go out and buy some splitfires.

I just want to avoid buying them if i don't need them.

I'm in the camberwell, ashburton area and would only need them for a night.

Thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290177-coilpakcs/
Share on other sites

ah damn i threw my coil packs for my seris two last week lol.

easy fix for you to test your coil packs is gake em out. give it a good clean and hit it with a thick coat of clear nail polish or some kind of silicon sealant. that will patch up any cracks your have on your coil packs as a temp fix and prrevent arking. if that fixes your problem then your coil packs are faulty

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290177-coilpakcs/#findComment-4856370
Share on other sites

What is the problem?

usually to diagnose you simply unplug each one @ idle. If the idle does not change, that is the dead pack as it should change if you unplug a good one :thumbsup:

Or you talking slight miss under load type of thing?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290177-coilpakcs/#findComment-4856460
Share on other sites

I probably should've explained myself a little better.

I have another thread with an outline of the problem here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...29#entry4803129

Basically the car wont start and i've checked a lot of stuff. I think it's actually the ignition module inside the coil pack as apose to a crack in the coil pack.

When i tested it it would get an intimitant spark but was not very strong. Also the car would just about fire but not quite.

So i pretty much jsut want to see what happens when i just some new coil packs in with fresh ignition modules and hopefully that will solve it..

Thanks for any help guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290177-coilpakcs/#findComment-4856938
Share on other sites

No problems Paul thanks for the input.

I just wanted to make sure i wasn't barking up the wrong tree.

If anyone has some i can borrow... literally for 30 mins or so i would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290177-coilpakcs/#findComment-4857346
Share on other sites

Will either of you guys be around during the day today?

and how soon wold you need them back.

I could probably do a late night drop back.

I i'm Glen Iris, so camberwell, ashburton area where are you guys?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290177-coilpakcs/#findComment-4857795
Share on other sites

Also pull your Coil Pack harness out and check it for any splits, mine had a few splits in it which was causing it to die under load at random times. Pulled the harness out and grabbed the Nitto and taped the whole harness. This fixed the issue instantly. Also check out teh eart on your battery, may be lose or shitty cable.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290177-coilpakcs/#findComment-4871627
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...