Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

today i was replacing my spark plugs and one of coilpack plastics plug broke leaving the pins bare. i connected it all back up and put something to split them apart. anyways some how i think the broken plug shorted out and my car didnt idle right and it stunk bad. i smelt the igniter and it seems the smell is coming from there. i was wanting to know what is the worst case scenario other than replacing the igniter could happen? really need some help here. freking out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290450-help-please-guys/
Share on other sites

More details?

Bad smell?

Like unburnt fuel, or burning platic?

Not idling right?

Does the engine vibrate worse than normal when you raise the throttle ?

Coilpack looms often fail after 100'000km because the loom stiffens from excessive heat inside the valley, so there's a good chance you killed the loom while taking it off to get the sparks ?

As for further damage, try not to run the engine if its on 5 or less cylinders, fix the problem asap.

yeah it smelt like burnt wire thats bout it. i didnt drive it much just took it out of the workshop and drove it back. the car was vibrating heaps. i dont really think its the coils because before the new spark plugs they were still good. the exhaust sound sounded like there were little gaps that it stopped type of thing it wasnt like a free flow kind of sound. hope this helps. one of my mates thinks its the igniter because i didnt drive it heaps. o you reckon it couldve f**ked up that shorted coil too? and what bout the spark plug

The coilpacks fail around 100'000km anyway, for the same reason - excessive heat, but usually the loom goes, like I said, its stiff, and when you move it to get into the valley it cracks and breaks, so its probably the ignition/coil loom from the ignitor to the coilpacks.

As the car is idling, wriggle the connection on either side of the ignitor pack and see if it cuts out. If the ignitor pack is f**ked, it'll overheat and shutdown within about 60 seconds.

Try another loom, and if still no luck, to work out which coil isn't working, disconnect them one at a time, until disconnecting one doesn't make a difference when you rev it, that's the one that doesn't work, where as disconnecting a working one will cause worse vibrations since it'll run on 4 cylinders, instead of 5 as it is now.

Ignitor pack's dont cost much, neither do loom's, but looms can be hard to find since alot of people have the same problem.

If you need to upgrade coilpacks, go Splitfires, either eBay or SlidingPerformance (who also sell brand new ignition looms), JustJap, etc

You can sometimes find ventilated valley covers on eBay, or just run the engine without the cover, so it doesnt cook anything again.

you didn't happen to put the plug back on upside down?

and what did you use to hold the pins apart?

sounds like you have probably shorted something out like you said and that may have burnt out the ignitor (since you said that's where the smell is coming from). you may not have burnt out all channels on the ignitor and that's why the car will still run (just not on all cylinders)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...