Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Okay just had word back from work - at the moment, I'm 100% in!

I'll just need dates and stuff because I have alot coming up in the next few months, but most of the stuff I can work around.

Great stuff.. dates are in first post.. approx 11th-22nd Jan so I have booked with my work for monday 11th - monday 25th off = 2weeks off.

Well guys, I will keep this open til after the Berri/loxton show ie. just over a week now and see how we go,

At this stage we have:

Myself

Dark.sky

Cronic

all confirmed,

but need more numbers to make it happen...can take another 4-6 people.

Get to it folks, check those dates and book time off... :devil:

Be good to have you along Craig...

As it stands the interest is a little low for this year... perhaps due to short notice.

A few have said they would be keen for 2011 Autosalon.

If I am still with my current job at that point I may try this again for the 2011 trip.... however may change employment half way thru the year which means I won't be doing 2011. Keep an eye out for a thread round mid 2010...

Autosalon Tokyo is always early-mid January if that helps with organising holidays over a year in advance!!

mega keen, but i already have to scrape together $10k for another trip. dont like my chances of affording this one too. :)

I hear ya.... have spent over 30 grand in the last 3-4 years travelling.... worth every cent too.

I'll leave it open for another week or so Dion, but it seems nobody is posting up things like "interested but need to check with bank/work/missus etc" so its not looking good, but I'm not gonna can it yet.

I still want to go, but need a couple more... probably four people (plus me) minimum to make it worthwile.

I know Shane (RBWARE) is a bit keen on going again also.... :D

Im in for 2011. But i'll be going for a month, with 10k spending money :D

Let me know when you go, ill go too, i wanna go for a longish time. I would like to visit some auto related places, but i would mainly want to go to visit Akihabara, and just see the culture, and sights...i am a bit of a anime/jap fan boy.

I wouldn't mind going mid next year, but if people are going in 2011, I'll go then.

$1750?

wow thats quite cheap, went to romania, europe last year in july, in their peak season, and i paid 3500 only for the tickets.

well worth the money though, seeing another culture and meeting relative i aint seen since 4yrs old.

Yep I have paid between 1500-1900 every time i have been.... except the last one.. we got a super special for $860 return!!

Sorry Martin, have only just noticed this post .... damn SAU is supposed to notify me when EVERY new post is made, but seems to be playing up lately.

Put me down on the 'probably not' list at stage mate - will let you know for sure by the Loxton show - have had some major expenses lately (including buying the V35, my $1,000 scuba gear and course I paid for this weekend), so have a slight issue with the missus regarding cash flow .... but I will work on her this week and let you know on the weekend if that is ok. TBH 2011 would probably be much better for me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What transmission are you running?  It's a bit tricky with the scaling, but at face value the power "curve" looks more like a "line" which is a bit odd... basically a lot more like a dyno plot I'd expect with a highish (compared to a factory auto) stall torque converter type setup. If this is running an auto then this kind of boost control challenge is definitely a thing, the rpm scale on the dyno doesn't reflect what the engine is actually doing (unless the dyno has access to the engine's ACTUAL speed electronically) and what you'll get is a big rpm flare up as the engine torque launches past the converter pump's ability to resist torque at that rpm, then as the converter starts picking up rpm it will kinda even out again and the engine rpm will pick up more steadily. The trick with this "flare up" is if it's kinda near the boost threshold for the turbo then the engine's airflow requirements to maintain the previous boost level will outrun the turbo's ability to supply that boost - so you end up with a natural flattening off, if not dip when that happens.   If you are running closed loop, or even tune the "feed forward" wastegate duty cycle to deal with that rpm spike then when the engine starts settling to a more typical climb you'll actually have a situation where the gate is "too closed" and boost will run away for a bit, then have to pull down again.      It's not trivial to get this perfect as most boost control systems are generally expecting more predictable engine rpm rates of change, but if you *know* that's whats going on then you can at least "accept your fate" and realise getting that area perfect is kinda chasing your tail a bit, and assume that if the rest is working sensibly and the spike/dip isn't completely uncontrolled then you should be good. Sorry if I've gone off on a tangent, but the dyno plot and boost control behaviour look a LOT like what I've seen tuning autos in the past. What ECU are you running? Could possibly be convinced into looking at logs if I get too bored this weekend haha.
    • A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
    • Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?
    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
×
×
  • Create New...