Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Just would like to ask about a Turbo option for my gts-t Rb25det. Iam currently looking at this setup. please tell me what you guys think. The plan is a street drivable half drift, half drag car. ( looking at beating at lest stock GTRS with this setup ) So please tell me your thoughts !

my current mods on the car are FMIC, Cat back exhaust, hks filter and catch can.

Iam looking at a HKS 2835pro, or a Trust T51. Either one with external wastegate and low mount manifold. Which one is the better of both, has any member got a similar setup on their RB25det and would like to share their opinions about the turbo?

These are the mods budgetted with the turbo ( please tell me if iam missing something )

power FC

dump and seperate front pipe

adjustable cams

Cam shafts ( what degrees is the best for RB25det )

Injectors

Fuel pump

Boost controller

Am i missing anything? ( MSG to STEVE, Thank you for your information already through PM. This post is not intended to insult the information you gave me. It was interesting, but i just want to see other peoples views. Thank you for you advice though :) )

Now the HICAS question, can anybody tell me how to completly remove the hicas system ( this is for weight saving purposes ) i know about the hicas canceller rod, but iam looking at removing the whole thing.

Thank you in advance for your advice

:)

DC

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29084-turbo-and-hicas-question/
Share on other sites

HKS 2835 is ideal for what you want. Increase in torque and HP. You should get over 240RWKW with proper tuning cam timing exhaust etc etc... (I'm sure more could be had Kw wise....) If you want more then look at the TD06 25 G there good for over 300kw.... but as many will say there is LAG involved

Loz

I was under the impression you could do away with the HICAS computer, but if you put your car into diagnostic mode, then it will throw error codes 11 (and maybe 12, and 13, but I'm not sure). From what I was told, it was ok to have these codes if there is no actual HICAS onboard.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...