Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

comp test isnt 100% accurate and i did also say i used the workshop comp tester which has been known to read lower. either way.. it goes hard. i have no issues with the motor so far. BTW what are the CP's you have for sale for the neo?

Yes pistons are for a Neo engine.

I just thought it was abit weird my engine(neo) was reading significantly lower than than an RB26 which was tested on the same gauge.

i could be interested... need to assess my finances.. PM me with a price for them if u can.

I fitted my GTX today...

a read can be found here http://simonmichelmo...ing-new-gtx-up/

Hey champ, when is the Dyno happening?

What is different about the nuts you used on the turbo??

nah these arent the off centred ones.. they have a slit at the top or crown of the nut and as you tighten them up then deform and lock into the thread... and yeah everyone should beusing them but i havent been :S

as for dyno will be another week away... got heaps of shit i need to do to the car before its down back on the ground.

for now.. heres some things to check out.

Driver profile for WTA

http://www.tectaloy.com/tectaloy_tdc2011_dp_sm.html

nah these arent the off centred ones.. they have a slit at the top or crown of the nut and as you tighten them up then deform and lock into the thread... and yeah everyone should beusing them but i havent been :S

Ah ok, do you find they are better or worse than the ones I'm talking about?

Also what did your neo set you back when you bought it?

paid 1500 for the neo...was mising the turbo but everything else there. not bad for a cheap motor!

these nuts are so much eaiser to put on... they go like a nylok nut.. so single use item only really.

i think they are called Crimp nuts. atleast thats what i ask for when i got to my local nucts and bolts. they are the ducks nuts for keeping turbos on.

paid 1500 for the neo...was mising the turbo but everything else there. not bad for a cheap motor!

these nuts are so much eaiser to put on... they go like a nylok nut.. so single use item only really.

bargain, I'm picking a neo up for 1900 this weekend, bare motor as well. Still it is the only one I've found for under $2k and in Adelaide in the last 2 months.

Where do you get the nuts from? I need to get some new ones so if they are easier to put on I'll grab them instead.

you in adelaide rolls? i never knew.. if you need a hand with anything or wiring related hit me up.

nuts from MTQ.. pretty cheap!

got my WTA confirmation!

http://www.worldtimeattack.com/index.php/south-australian-g1-champion-simon-michelmore-confirmed-for-tectaloy-drift/

Yeah I'm in good old Adelaide, already converted the 32 to a 33 25, but putting a neo in as it shit itself so hopefully will just be the CAS plus I need to rewire and that's it!

Cheers for the offer. :)

edit: Didn't realise you used rsr's on the car, that must cost an absolute fortune with drift!

Edited by Rolls
  • 3 weeks later...

update: Garage7 repaired my BC coilover and Hoey are regassing it for me.. with some luck i'll have it in next few days.

started mounting my air vent... as typical i cut the hole too f**king big :( oh well this front bar has a limited life span anyway... my painter cant paint it before matsuri so i rattle canned it lol.

261596_2075538441441_1034359196_2302443_5107549_n.jpg

Yeah I'm in good old Adelaide, already converted the 32 to a 33 25, but putting a neo in as it shit itself so hopefully will just be the CAS plus I need to rewire and that's it!

Cheers for the offer. :)

edit: Didn't realise you used rsr's on the car, that must cost an absolute fortune with drift!

Hey rolls, are you going to use the 33/32 loom/ecu/ign set up to to run the 25 neo? what are you going to do with the CAS? is it as simple as a plug re-wire and use the neo CAS or do you have a mechanical solution to put the rb20/ r33 rb25 CAS into the NEO?

Cheers

Justin

Hey rolls, are you going to use the 33/32 loom/ecu/ign set up to to run the 25 neo? what are you going to do with the CAS? is it as simple as a plug re-wire and use the neo CAS or do you have a mechanical solution to put the rb20/ r33 rb25 CAS into the NEO?

I am using all R32 loom up to the ignitor, I chopped the old plug off and used the R34 coils that have the ignitor built in and wired a nice new deutsch plug on the end removing the ignitor, plug looks better than factory! about $35 for all the pins etc but I know it will last forever now.

Using rb20det R32 ecu with a nistune module, R34 cas rewired (pin out is different) 1-4 2-3 3-4 4-1, Z32 afm and S1 r33 intake manifold with aux air valve, throttle body, tps etc. Basically looks like S1 rb25det everything with r34 coils.

Try and get a complete R33 intake/fuel setup etc as the r34 sensors etc are all different, different coolant lines etc, different fuel rail and injector loom, so have no idea how it would all mount up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...