Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i bought a skyline R32 from Melbourne drove it back, with vic rego till november.... i have 14 days in SA with rego, thats gone.. i took it down to regency and everything was fine, sept the bloke said i have no compliance plate , i was like wtf is that , then he described what is was to me... and i really didnt understand the stages to go through to get it.. i was just wondering if anyone could give me simple steps to get my compliance plates... cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291014-need-help-getting-my-car-registered/
Share on other sites

thats weird all imports coming off the boat need a compliance plate straight away to be registered. Iv got a 32 GTR coming in from japan soon so il be in your shoes, im lookin at roughly 2 - 2.5k for compliance.

its under 15 year rule ..... yea i think i should give it another check around the car .... bloody vics :( but i was just wondering if anyone could gimmie simple steps to getting this compliance plate as fast as possible... im missing out on hill runs :D lol

my car came from vic (came from J land under RAWS, not SEVS), and it does not have a compliance plate that i have seen..... went thru regency just fine for rego. u may have just hit a guy in regency that does not know their shiz.....

or more likely i dont know where my compliance plate is :dry:

RAWS & SEVS are 2 complementing things, not different methods for import.

But yes, cars are out there with no plates - my DR30 was one of them. It was imported under the 15-year rule back in 2001, and about 18 months ago I received an SA Compliance Plate (sticker) that had to be affixed to the drivers door jamb, or rear firewall.

(SA legislation required a 'domestic' plate on all vehicles, so they had to retro-fit non RAWS imports)

The OP's car may be in the same boat, but import approval paperwork will certainly ease the red-tape pain...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...