Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.atpturbo.com.au/ATP_Turbo_Repairs/index.html

I've got a new (old) R32 GTR coming my way which is pretty much stock standard. She'll only ever be a streeter and I'm not looking for big horsepower. I guess I'm wondering what my turbo options are. I really don't want to sink a fortune into it (like the other damn one), but am concerned if I leave the std turbs in place they'll let go one day and possibly take the eingine too. I'd like to maintain the feel of the originals, perhaps lean on them a little harder and make a little more mumbo, but that's about it....

I've sussed out a new / second hand pair of -7s, or I could rebuild the oldies, and possibly hi-flow too.

Be interested to hear your thoughts on the various options and where to get good quality work done.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291139-turbo-rebuilds/
Share on other sites

if the dash -7s are the ones that kip from ATP are selling id probably get those...

They have only seen dyno time and the owner wanted more power and i think upgraded to -5s..

He offered me this pair a couple of weeks back but i had just installed a pair 2 days earlier.

Im not sure what it costs to rebuild the stockies but i cant see it being that much cheaper than getting the used -7s..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291139-turbo-rebuilds/#findComment-4868883
Share on other sites

If its going to be a streeter with <270-280kw (so you wont need injectors or AFMs) then you might as well just get steel wheels in the stockers, which is around 700-800 each IIRC. I've got highflows in mine which i bought off an SAUer, the receipt showed he spent $1800. I did the dumps at the same time and havent retuned or upped the boost yet, but they seem to start to spool at the same time as the stockers (~2000rpm), but they spool more slowly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291139-turbo-rebuilds/#findComment-4868890
Share on other sites

If its going to be a streeter with <270-280kw (so you wont need injectors or AFMs) then you might as well just get steel wheels in the stockers, which is around 700-800 each IIRC. I've got highflows in mine which i bought off an SAUer, the receipt showed he spent $1800. I did the dumps at the same time and havent retuned or upped the boost yet, but they seem to start to spool at the same time as the stockers (~2000rpm), but they spool more slowly.

At this stage (and I do change my mind) I tend to agree with you re steel wheels in the stockers. I'm assuming the hiflow part means they spool up more slowly. I'm also assuming the steel wheels with no hiflow spool more slowly than the ceramics? Does that mean you really want to run more boost when going to the steelies?

I'm guessing there's no reliable way of replicating the feel of the ceramic turbs, so once they're gone the repsonse will always be a little slower?

I don't want to lean on the engine too hard or want fuel economy to drop to pitiful levels, so just the guarantee they don't pop and get a little more.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291139-turbo-rebuilds/#findComment-4868958
Share on other sites

Does one use sleeve or ball bearings when this is done? What is the standard set up?

Sleeve and sleeve. If you do ball bearings it will cost the same as new garretts.

The highflow means there's less turbine wheel so less exhaust restriction, and yes slower spool. I was expecting spool to start later, but it started at the same rpm as stock, just ramped up more slowly. YMMV

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291139-turbo-rebuilds/#findComment-4869286
Share on other sites

Ye if you want a "cheap" replacement just for reliability's sake, then i'd choose sleeve.

There is a difference between them and the ball bearing, but hey, if you aren't chasing ultimate power/response then it's of little worry.

If you went ball - as stated, you'd just buy of the shelf Garrett's as it'll work out the same price, then sell the stock turbos off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291139-turbo-rebuilds/#findComment-4869393
Share on other sites

I used RotoMaster http://www.rotomaster.com.au/

They rebuilt my hks2530

Cost me $800 for new ball bearings and seals.

Much cheaper than anyone else, because they are exclusive Garrett distributor and can source separate parts instead of the whole chra

Give them a call

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291139-turbo-rebuilds/#findComment-4869465
Share on other sites

So let's say I can get the std items rebuilt for around $1,200 and some good quality second hand -7 Garretts for $500 more, are they worth the extra? I guess the labour investment is high so need to make the right decision re parts. Once again I'm not going to boost the hell out of these things as its an older engine and for the street. The -7s are larger than std so I'm wondering if they might actually be a backward step (even though they're ball bearing) considering response and the relatively low boost.

Thoughts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291139-turbo-rebuilds/#findComment-4881254
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Nothing, just dont increase the boost too much.

I was running 1bar on the stock ECU without a issue with GT-SS's, made around 260rwkw.

So by nothing, you man nothing bad? Just strap them on, set the boost to around 1 bar and get circa 260 rwkw? Is that what you mean? Thanks Ash.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291139-turbo-rebuilds/#findComment-4897734
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
×
×
  • Create New...