Help Needed! How To Remove Rb25 Auto Transfer Case From Box?

[sbyder]

I have a Nissan Cedric with the CVT automatic and VQ30DET. The CVT blew up, so i needed it replaced. Was going to cost 6-12K to have it rebuilt (not joking) or 2K to get a 2nd hand one from Japan which could be in the same condition.

The Cedric also was released as a 4WD RB25DET normal automatic. I found a guy that brought in a half cut, so i bought it from him.

Im in the process of swapping the engine and transmission over from the cut into my car including the ECU's and wiring harness. The problem is, my transmission tunnel does not have a hollow out to fit in the transfer case and the importer does not have the actuator assembly for the 4WD system. The 4WD stagea actuators look different and have different part numbers, so im pretty sure they wont fit, and then the wiring loom will need to be made as i have no clue where it wires up to.

NOTE: I cant convert to manual as my handbrake is a foot brake and would cause huge nightmares.

1. Can I convert to a Stagea RWD auto and would the ecu need to change?

2. Can I remove the transfer case off the gearbox and fit a tailshaft, or is that not possible?

3. Can i use a stagea actuator assembly, and does anyone know how to wire it up?

Thanks for your help and advise.

Ben

Edited October 9, 2009 by sbyder

[sbyder]

4. Can i just remove the front driveshaft, front CV's and block up the rear hydraulic line off the back of the tranfer case that's meant to go to the rear diff?

[sbyder]

After a lot of research i have found that i should just remove the front driveshaft to make it RWD only. I now only have 1 question.

Do i need to remove the front CV's? Will the front wheels spinning cause the front diff to lock up?

After reading the below post i can assume that i can just remove the line and fit a cap/block off onto the end of transfer case line opening.

the hydraulic line comes off the very rear of the gearbox (well transfercase) if u check under your auto is exactly the same and its a huge thick line which runs to pump above rear diff. the attessa clutches are pressed exactly like a clutch setup, with the fluid pushing a piston in the rear of the transfercase, which pivots a arm in the box to squeeze the clutch packs together activating 4wd... the only ecu involvement is deciding when to turn pump on and off and to activate the active lsd which is very similair style diff setup with clutches inside and done with same fluid.

Any help would be very much appreciated!

Edited October 10, 2009 by sbyder

[sbyder]

PLEASE DELETE THREAD!

Obviously people are too confused about the thread title to help.