Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you believe rego papers? :down:

Mine was nothing near what the sticker had, fked if i know where those numbers come from to be honest because they certainly are not putting the cars onto the scales!

Rego is ridiculous, I swear they estimate that shit. They still think my 1994 Soarer is a 1992 Supra.

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Going off my current specs the Richmond calcultor is on the money ET wise. It says I should be running 10.0 with 503rwhp. I have run 10.4 with a an average 60ft of 1.7 (radials) so a 1.5 should net me that flat 10. My trap speed was more at 136.52 over the 133 that it said.

However, when I was on a 98RON tune rather than E85 pump fuel making 391hp my car trapped 131mph and 134mph (11.0 and 11.2)

There were other factor such as a 1.87 60ft on both passes, smaller 225 tyres. The Moroso says 10.7 @ 121mph.

Torque is something so often overlooked when it comes to dynos, an example is the above 391hp pump tune compared to 520hp I had with a less active motor with a big turbo and lots of boost.

391hp = 134mph GT3037S, big cams, ported head 19psi BP 98

520hp = 137mph T88, small cams and not much else 29psi Race tune

Same dyno, different engines only different was tyres and of course lots more torque in the engine making less peak hp and way more mid range.

I've found the Morosso calculator pretty accurate with most cars.

With the higher power ones, its almost impossible to get acurate dyno readings with rolling roads or hub dynos with auto's and big converters but based on weight and mph it seems like a pretty good guide.

Mph is where its at as far as whp goes IMO, its possible to get real good ETs with a good chassis etc but the mph V weight still gives a good indication of whp.

I saw a car run 7.3 off a 1.0 60ft with less mph than my 240z running 7.8 but I bet if we worked it out off his weight his mph would accuratly reflect whp.

Rob

The moroso calc. works ok.... for calculations.

Until you drive the time in real life you got nuthin. If the moroso says 10 flat and you run 10.999 then 10.999 is what your car runs till you better it in the real world.

Talk is cheap take it to the track. :P

The moroso calc. works ok.... for calculations.

Until you drive the time in real life you got nuthin. If the moroso says 10 flat and you run 10.999 then 10.999 is what your car runs till you better it in the real world.

Talk is cheap take it to the track. :banana:

While I agree with part of what you are saying, the Moroso calculator is on the money. Gee the V8 boys would cringe if you dare said something about their bible haha.

WHEN I nail a 1.5 60ft my car WILL run 10 flat but unfortunately no cage = one run wonders at the track and no chance to improve.

I wasn't taking what you wrote personally by the way, I was just using myself as an example :P

PJ

While I agree with part of what you are saying, the Moroso calculator is on the money. Gee the V8 boys would cringe if you dare said something about their bible haha.

WHEN I nail a 1.5 60ft my car WILL run 10 flat but unfortunately no cage = one run wonders at the track and no chance to improve.

I wasn't taking what you wrote personally by the way, I was just using myself as an example :blink:

PJ

I like the glass half full approach too. Keeps you trying.

You may get the 1.5 60ft but, the car may also break every time you nail it. Thats the tragic facts of racing. I know of many who never got to thier goal times even though power and the moroso calculator were on thier side.

The calculator also assumes that you are making that horse power at the track on the day and the time you race and people base this on some dyno they my have had 6 months ago. The dyno is again, another one of thos bits of paper with limited value in racing.

So once again, until it's done a 10 flat it's not done 10 seconds flat. :cool:

Torque is something so often overlooked when it comes to dynos, an example is the above 391hp pump tune compared to 520hp I had with a less active motor with a big turbo and lots of boost.

391hp = 134mph GT3037S, big cams, ported head 19psi BP 98

520hp = 137mph T88, small cams and not much else 29psi Race tune

Same dyno, different engines only different was tyres and of course lots more torque in the engine making less peak hp and way more mid range.

The difference is simply average power. If you were able to gear the car for the peaky powerband you would see a big change in ts.

I like the glass half full approach too. Keeps you trying.

You may get the 1.5 60ft but, the car may also break every time you nail it. Thats the tragic facts of racing. I know of many who never got to thier goal times even though power and the moroso calculator were on thier side.

The calculator also assumes that you are making that horse power at the track on the day and the time you race and people base this on some dyno they my have had 6 months ago. The dyno is again, another one of thos bits of paper with limited value in racing.

So once again, until it's done a 10 flat it's not done 10 seconds flat. :ninja:

Anything can and happen, I know this. But the Moroso calculator isn't based on you nailing a 1.5 60ft time and blowing a diff, or missing a gear, or engines that have lost comp since they were dyno'd in 1980.

Anyway, I think we've stated the obvious enough already.

Peace.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
×
×
  • Create New...