Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you believe rego papers? :down:

Mine was nothing near what the sticker had, fked if i know where those numbers come from to be honest because they certainly are not putting the cars onto the scales!

Rego is ridiculous, I swear they estimate that shit. They still think my 1994 Soarer is a 1992 Supra.

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Going off my current specs the Richmond calcultor is on the money ET wise. It says I should be running 10.0 with 503rwhp. I have run 10.4 with a an average 60ft of 1.7 (radials) so a 1.5 should net me that flat 10. My trap speed was more at 136.52 over the 133 that it said.

However, when I was on a 98RON tune rather than E85 pump fuel making 391hp my car trapped 131mph and 134mph (11.0 and 11.2)

There were other factor such as a 1.87 60ft on both passes, smaller 225 tyres. The Moroso says 10.7 @ 121mph.

Torque is something so often overlooked when it comes to dynos, an example is the above 391hp pump tune compared to 520hp I had with a less active motor with a big turbo and lots of boost.

391hp = 134mph GT3037S, big cams, ported head 19psi BP 98

520hp = 137mph T88, small cams and not much else 29psi Race tune

Same dyno, different engines only different was tyres and of course lots more torque in the engine making less peak hp and way more mid range.

I've found the Morosso calculator pretty accurate with most cars.

With the higher power ones, its almost impossible to get acurate dyno readings with rolling roads or hub dynos with auto's and big converters but based on weight and mph it seems like a pretty good guide.

Mph is where its at as far as whp goes IMO, its possible to get real good ETs with a good chassis etc but the mph V weight still gives a good indication of whp.

I saw a car run 7.3 off a 1.0 60ft with less mph than my 240z running 7.8 but I bet if we worked it out off his weight his mph would accuratly reflect whp.

Rob

The moroso calc. works ok.... for calculations.

Until you drive the time in real life you got nuthin. If the moroso says 10 flat and you run 10.999 then 10.999 is what your car runs till you better it in the real world.

Talk is cheap take it to the track. :P

The moroso calc. works ok.... for calculations.

Until you drive the time in real life you got nuthin. If the moroso says 10 flat and you run 10.999 then 10.999 is what your car runs till you better it in the real world.

Talk is cheap take it to the track. :banana:

While I agree with part of what you are saying, the Moroso calculator is on the money. Gee the V8 boys would cringe if you dare said something about their bible haha.

WHEN I nail a 1.5 60ft my car WILL run 10 flat but unfortunately no cage = one run wonders at the track and no chance to improve.

I wasn't taking what you wrote personally by the way, I was just using myself as an example :P

PJ

While I agree with part of what you are saying, the Moroso calculator is on the money. Gee the V8 boys would cringe if you dare said something about their bible haha.

WHEN I nail a 1.5 60ft my car WILL run 10 flat but unfortunately no cage = one run wonders at the track and no chance to improve.

I wasn't taking what you wrote personally by the way, I was just using myself as an example :blink:

PJ

I like the glass half full approach too. Keeps you trying.

You may get the 1.5 60ft but, the car may also break every time you nail it. Thats the tragic facts of racing. I know of many who never got to thier goal times even though power and the moroso calculator were on thier side.

The calculator also assumes that you are making that horse power at the track on the day and the time you race and people base this on some dyno they my have had 6 months ago. The dyno is again, another one of thos bits of paper with limited value in racing.

So once again, until it's done a 10 flat it's not done 10 seconds flat. :cool:

Torque is something so often overlooked when it comes to dynos, an example is the above 391hp pump tune compared to 520hp I had with a less active motor with a big turbo and lots of boost.

391hp = 134mph GT3037S, big cams, ported head 19psi BP 98

520hp = 137mph T88, small cams and not much else 29psi Race tune

Same dyno, different engines only different was tyres and of course lots more torque in the engine making less peak hp and way more mid range.

The difference is simply average power. If you were able to gear the car for the peaky powerband you would see a big change in ts.

I like the glass half full approach too. Keeps you trying.

You may get the 1.5 60ft but, the car may also break every time you nail it. Thats the tragic facts of racing. I know of many who never got to thier goal times even though power and the moroso calculator were on thier side.

The calculator also assumes that you are making that horse power at the track on the day and the time you race and people base this on some dyno they my have had 6 months ago. The dyno is again, another one of thos bits of paper with limited value in racing.

So once again, until it's done a 10 flat it's not done 10 seconds flat. :ninja:

Anything can and happen, I know this. But the Moroso calculator isn't based on you nailing a 1.5 60ft time and blowing a diff, or missing a gear, or engines that have lost comp since they were dyno'd in 1980.

Anyway, I think we've stated the obvious enough already.

Peace.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...