Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have just put a R33 box in my 32 with good secondhand OS Giken triple-plate & Nismo oversized slave. Also got a smaller diameter & smaller height thrust. Now the top half of the pedal feels like there is nothing there at all although it is moving slave slightly, next bit of pedal feels fairly normal & then just before you hit the floor pedal is really firm. The reason for the thrust was the diaphragm fingers on OS stuck out about 6mm further than previous clutch so went 6mm less height to compensate & you could see from marks on diaphragm it had been running a much smaller than stock thrust (Im assuming to help with pedal effort) so used what had been on it before. Any one had similar problems? Any help/info/advice appreciated.

Have just put a R33 box in my 32 with good secondhand OS Giken triple-plate & Nismo oversized slave. Also got a smaller diameter & smaller height thrust. Now the top half of the pedal feels like there is nothing there at all although it is moving slave slightly, next bit of pedal feels fairly normal & then just before you hit the floor pedal is really firm. The reason for the thrust was the diaphragm fingers on OS stuck out about 6mm further than previous clutch so went 6mm less height to compensate & you could see from marks on diaphragm it had been running a much smaller than stock thrust (Im assuming to help with pedal effort) so used what had been on it before. Any one had similar problems? Any help/info/advice appreciated.

yeah you need to use the smaller diameter bearing for that very reason

Yeah I am using the smaller diameter thrust. Am wondering if that along with the Nismo slave is giving me this strange pedal feel? Maybe only needed to go one or the other? Have driven a mates GTR with multi-plate clutch & the pedal was ridiculously heavy so thought I would need all the help I can get. Now it really seems too soft at top of pedal, getting firmer in stages as pedal is pushed in...

Yeah I am using the smaller diameter thrust. Am wondering if that along with the Nismo slave is giving me this strange pedal feel? Maybe only needed to go one or the other? Have driven a mates GTR with multi-plate clutch & the pedal was ridiculously heavy so thought I would need all the help I can get. Now it really seems too soft at top of pedal, getting firmer in stages as pedal is pushed in...

Put the stock slave back in and bleed it well and it should do the trick. Most triple plates etc. already have modified pivot points for easier operation but they need the full travel of the stock slave.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
×
×
  • Create New...