Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking for some fresh ideas.

My brothers R 32 GTR keeps stopping after running for about 3 to 5 minutes.

It just shuts down as if it is out of fuel, then you have to pull over and re start it.

So far we have tried many thing including the following.

- drained and replaced fuel.

- replaced the fuel pump.

- installed the earth bypass on the fuel pump.

- replaced the fuel filter.

- tryed driving it with the fuel cap off.

- replaced the fuel pump relay.

- swapped the ECU.

- spark plugs replaced.

All with no change what so ever, If any one has any ideas of what else we can try or if wore comes to worse , where to take it in Adelaide for repair, we are all ears.

Cheers Trev

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291535-gtr-keeps-stopping/
Share on other sites

Have you cleaned the fuel tank? Once heard of a similar problem (in a Patrol) - turned out to be a piece of plastic that would get sucked onto the fuel pump. As soon as the engine was stopped, the plastic floated away.

What I think is most likely: Try a different fuel pressure regulator, injectors might be clogged and need cleaning, solder gone bad on an AFM (check DIY section for guide how to fix a AFM)

Long shot: faulty O2 sensor (unplug them both so ECU runs in open loop permanently), I only say this because it seems the car is running fine in open loop while warming up, and when it goes to closed loop it starves itself of fuel and stops.

Check the SA subforum for a sticky with trusted workshops, if you live in the northern suburbs send me a PM i'll give you the details of my mechanic who specializes in GTRs (r32 in particular)

ignition module/power transistor. most common sympton people experience is a missfire however when they get real bad they will intermittetly cut all power to the ignition until it has cooled (generally).

is it difficult to re-start?

thanks guys

The fuel tank was completly cleaned out.

When it stops you need to turn the ignition all the way off, after about 2 seconds you can hear a faint relay clicking noise from around the ECU area. You then turn the ignition on and the fuel pump seems to run for an extended period ( as if it has not been started for a week ). Then you can restart it and drive it home using minimum throttle.

Last night it was started in the drive way and left idiling for 15 min ,it then started to splutter and barley keep running.

we can swap my ignition module over and eliminate that in the next couple of days.

cheers Trev

changed the ignitor last night as it was an easy swap but no change.

Contacted alarm installer and Alarm is only connected to starter motor and not ECU.

We will start looking at the rail pressure and regulator next as well as the AFM,s.

may also give unplugging the O2 sensors a go.

Cheers Trev

Edited by GTR Trev

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...