Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had my wheels balanced a few weeks ago and the idiots that did the balance grazed where the holes were for the bolts on the rims. They also nicked a bit of paint off from the rim near the bolt. This was on 4 wheels. What the hell did they do wrong?

Someone told me they should have used a plastic piece that goes around the air gun to prevent damaging the wheel? Does anyone know what this plastic thing is so i can tell the next person that works on my car?

Cheers

Yea the wa***rs that changed my tyres did the same thing :D

I was looking for a decent socket the other day but only found a set of them and didnt want all three, made by SCA i think? 17mm, 19mm and 21mm and they all have the protective outer lining bit, $35 from supercheap.

its a care factor thing. most tyre shops know that you wont kick a fuss about minor scratches on the wheels so they dont really bother.

its like getting new tyres and balancing...this one place I went actually did the trouble of deflating ...rotate...inflate...balance a couple of times until they found a setting with minimal counter balance weights. other shops will install and balance and stick a ton of lead weights on one side if that's what the reading on the machine told them

Someone told me they should have used a plastic piece that goes around the air gun to prevent damaging the wheel? Does anyone know what this plastic thing is so i can tell the next person that works on my car?

Dunno what its name is, but yeah good tyre shops will cover the sockets in plastic.

If you've got a good relationship with the tyre shop and they don't have the plastic sleeve, ask them to put tape over the sockets. At home I wrap mine in masking tape or race tape. If they're lazy and don't know you they'll either give you lip service or tell you to get stuffed, but if you get on with them they might take the extra 30 seconds.

I've only found a couple of places that are willing to take care to not damage wheels. I was really happy to deal with Tyrepower Hornsby when I got my TE37s. Not only are their sockets plastic sheathed, but the guys there actually wrapped my metal valve steps with cloth so they could screw them in with pliers (or whatever tool it is they use to grip it) without scratching them. They also made sure they were careful moving the wheels on and off the car.

They also knew not to airgun-tighten my RAYS wheelnuts, which puts them well above most knuckle-draggers working at tyre shops.

If you had noticed at the time, refusing to pay the bill until they agree to have all damage repaired , certainly would have made them be careful NEXT time...

But seriously, how long was it before you noticed? If it was only hours, go back complain, it's your property they're working on , you're paying them, there's an expectation that they don't damage things...

It's a shame to have to find out this way, check out ANY work done on your car BEFORE you pay. Most mechanics, etc, are careful, but some are not.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 🙂 
    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
×
×
  • Create New...