Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car is now up for sale as whole, if someone is good enough it could be repaired. Car still remains the same as above posts, less rego, obviously roadworthy and rays wheels are no longer availible with car. I'm after $3800 with interior or $3000 without rear seats and front bucket seats would be replaced stock seats in the front. Will sell interior seperate for $800 if anyone is interested.

post-46575-1259668946_thumb.jpgpost-46575-1259668960_thumb.jpg

post-46575-1259668980_thumb.jpgpost-46575-1259668990_thumb.jpg

post-46575-1259669009_thumb.jpgpost-46575-1259669018_thumb.jpg

Edited by smallman

depends what you can do by your self, if you found a half cut with no engine and you can put the straight front end on your self. Would be a little bit of time and the cost of the half cut. Also you would have to get the chassis rails pulled out.

if the chassis rails are fked, it's as good as a write off. it ll never be the same again. the most profitable way would be to part out the car and fix the engine, if it has minor damage.

the chassis rails are not f**ked, they have minor damage but still need to be pulled out. My friend bent his rails on his 33 pretty bad and he managed to get them pulled out and there is nothing wrong with the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...