Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

cant see it at work, but im assuming its the group that says something like there are too many skylines and wrx in adelaide.

but then the people go on about how great commos are inside it :) think there's a s load more of those in adelaide

Sigh

Split the coolant hose underneath the inlet manifold this morning. Lost 80% of my coolant, managed to get it to the mechanics in time. Pissed the last litre of coolant out while it was on the hoist. They had to remove the starter motor to get to it. 2x hoses replaced. Thank f**k its not the heater core hoses. And I'd only put new coolant in 3 months ago, genuine nissan too...

-D

before or after mullers rd Ben?

before - only noticed it when i got to work, went inside to get some stuff and came out to see a massive puddle of ethylene glycol baking in the sun - looked at the radiator, had enuff to proceed but had the bottle of distilled water just in case

-D

EDIT - And main north nissan are all out of that particular hose. Dunno if I find one in silicon from anyone in adelaide before Friday either (it'll take till friday for nissan to get the hose from Melb...)

RB24...that is all :)
I don't know how much it would cost...but 2-2.5k should do it, ill scan a article out of HPI #44, where they start building a RB24, and send it too you.

and the rest abe, i reckon 2k would cover the machining

last time i checked the tomei RB24 kit was 6k :)

Yeah no shit hey. Trying to find out about catch can setups/ oil mods for some piece of mind and just when I get some useful info someone two posts down trashes it.

All I want is a lightly tuned reliable GTR.

  • Oil mods like which catch can, relocator and oil cooler
  • Front pipes (No I'm not going to AM Performance
  • Pods or panel filters
  • clutch, ebc, injectors, cams, fuel pumps.

Too many options, too many chances of buying a brand thats not going to work well.

1) those oil mods wont solve the GTR's problems, they help you at the track and changing filter, but as far as stopping them from spinning a bearing, you really need the sump off!! you can actually do the sump mods with the engine in the car, there actually is a way to take the sump off with the engine still in place! and you want to enlarge and baffel it! the other important mod is the restrictor in the head...not that easy to do, you may be able to do it from the bottom with the sump off tho, but expect to pay $$ for this

2) umm.. okay, why? u know whats on there atm? any particular reason you have singled out this part of the exhaust?

3) pods with shroud or box... once again, for a stockish car why would you want to change them?

4)

a) you having problems with the clutch at the moment? untill it start failing why change?

b) anything with a mac valve, they are the best type of electronic presure control!! (profec b spec 1 has it)

c) perhaps were starting to move away from a lightly tuned gtr?? stock turbos? its going to depend on your current plans, remember if were talking stock ecu there is only so big you can go

d) from the fourms "The answer on duration depends on what RPM range you are targetting, be realistic.

If you intend to use 7,000 to 9,500 rpm, something around 272 to 288 degrees would be the go.

For 5,500 to 8,000 rpm, around 260 to 272 and for 4,500 to 7,500 rpm then 248 to 260 is the go.

That's a simplification, but you get the idea. As for lift, once I know the effective rpm range,

I then choose the highest lift I can for that duration. What valve springs you are using will also determine the maximum lift" just note that once you get over 10.25mm lift you need new buckets as well as springs, you may also start to get clearance issues if you go much higher lift. but once again i ask why??

e) obv if your doing injectors u'd do this

perhaps its better for you to list your goals and we can go from there, but there is ALOT you do need to consider (as your finding out) and alot of the time you do one upgrade and you look at thing having to do 3 more for it!

i can see what your thinking... get the car up to a good base to work from there, but it depends on your 'current' end goals, you might not need to do some of this, and you might want to look at other things instead

1 x Hell Yeah
about time that R was out again luke....cant wait to see you at a villis meet with the R mate

cheers guys... but MORE delays!! =\

who quits work the week before they start on my car XD

What sized tire should I run on the GTR for a 9.5" rim? I was thinking maybe a 245/35 KU36 all round

I run 245's on a 8.5 rim at the track, If i was you i'd be going 255's minimum. No need to stretch your tyres on a 9.5inch rim on a GTR.\

I'm pretty sure Sled had 255's on his 9.5's on his GTR.

Edited by DSTROY
+1 GTR's should have no stretched tryes. Flush but no stretch :)

Unless their 10inch+ I think Shane has stretched 255's on RBWARE, looks f#cking porn!

dsc_0113_resized.jpg

Edited by DSTROY
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...