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na man, that will be done in like 3-4 weeks, along with hyrdo hand break, vs commo rear callipers

ecu display and a few other goodies...

i cant make it to the june 19 coz of a 40th, there isnt one in july, so the next one i can get to is aug 14 :ninja:

Fark man, sounds good - I'd love to get something with a hydraulic handbrake already done,

Whats an install for them worth?

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the motorbike shop round the corner from me has open face for $80

let me know if you find cheaper...

i found my full face to be quite annoying the other night.

I'd rather a full face and keep my teeth if i go head first into a wall.

Your teeth are the least of your worries if you mount a wall head first at decent speed lol

You'd be surprised just how much damage a helmet will stop. Crushed ribs/bones can be fixed, a crushed skull is a whole different ballgame

the motorbike shop round the corner from me has open face for $80

let me know if you find cheaper...

i found my full face to be quite annoying the other night.

+1

I cant stand a full face on a bike let alone inside a car.

Hyperformance Cycles at Ridgehaven (or thereabouts) has ADR Open Face matte black helmets for $50.

not sure if this has been posted on here yet. http://zilvia.net/f/off-topic-chat/321517-...you-missed.html

Damn Chef beat me in the other thread by a few minutes

Edited by DSTROY

depends on who you get to build, and parts price list

a while a go i got quoted 2k machine work on a bottom end increasing the capacity to a 3lt, i couldnt afford the whole route so i have put it off

add in another 1k for pistons, 1k for balancer to rev to 8k, few other bits and pieces 6k is achievable

Gday steve,

here is a simillar kit to what i suggest for yours:

Gday steve,

here is a simillar kit to what i suggest for yours:

http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/Kakimoto-R...-RB26DETT-27058

I think they are priced around $2500 for that kit, let alone all the machine and assembly work. as you know the os motors are very pricey(same concept)

Have to work out exact pricing, but machining your block includes; boring/honing, decking, deck plate manafactured/installed, sleeves installed then bored/honed and decked again to suit the piston/rod/crank combo will be somewhere around $2000

Am not a fan of using the sump adaptor plate on the rb30 block - brings up numerous issues and there is no benefit in using the thing imo.

Just some of the issues are; external oil pump pick up required, elongating the bellhousing bolts.

The plate you can buy for $450 is a waste of time - the bolt holes are drilled on angles and nothing really lines up 100% etc etc etc. + it takes a fair bit of work trying to get the thing to work properly.

The only draw back in the deck plate method is the extra time needed to machine the block. Once this is completed though its all positives. These include; Original engine number retained, block rigidity increased, can be machined to fit any combination of stroke rod length and piston compression height. Bore size can be increased to over 87mm safely(due to the sleeves used and the rigidity of the deck plate)

In answer to your question on the phone (do you measure clearances before engine assembly)

Yes we double check everything, we have been building perfomance engines for long enough! smile.gif

Rod bolts are measured and streched to torque, all journals and bearings and there housings are measured and corrected if necessary, bores are honed to suit EACH piston etc etc etc. Takes along time to get it right but i feel if you are to do it, then you do it RIGHT the first time.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

I think they are priced around $2500 for that kit, let alone all the machine and assembly work. as you know the os motors are very pricey(same concept)

Have to work out exact pricing, but machining your block includes; boring/honing, decking, deck plate manafactured/installed, sleeves installed then bored/honed and decked again to suit the piston/rod/crank combo will be somewhere around $2000

Am not a fan of using the sump adaptor plate on the rb30 block - brings up numerous issues and there is no benefit in using the thing imo.

Just some of the issues are; external oil pump pick up required, elongating the bellhousing bolts.

The plate you can buy for $450 is a waste of time - the bolt holes are drilled on angles and nothing really lines up 100% etc etc etc. + it takes a fair bit of work trying to get the thing to work properly.

The only draw back in the deck plate method is the extra time needed to machine the block. Once this is completed though its all positives. These include; Original engine number retained, block rigidity increased, can be machined to fit any combination of stroke rod length and piston compression height. Bore size can be increased to over 87mm safely(due to the sleeves used and the rigidity of the deck plate)

In answer to your question on the phone (do you measure clearances before engine assembly)

Yes we double check everything, we have been building perfomance engines for long enough! smile.gif

Rod bolts are measured and streched to torque, all journals and bearings and there housings are measured and corrected if necessary, bores are honed to suit EACH piston etc etc etc. Takes along time to get it right but i feel if you are to do it, then you do it RIGHT the first time.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

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