Jump to content
SAU Community

The Sa Wasteland

heslo

By heslo,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

RubyRS4 Grand Master

RubyRS4

Posted
Posted
Hey anyone know much about bikes here (possibly ruby, although im talking lil stuff around bikes here)

im planning on getting my mate a pit bike trial bike thingo to use on his farm. doesn’t need to be fast just aslong as it go's and we only light weights so doesn’t need any power.

was looking at possibly one of these but not really sure just yet.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/125CC-TDR-ALLOY-PIT...=item1e5d39f68a

any bought any of them?

Get one with a Lifan 140cc motor if you can. See my mate Brian at East 50s if you can. He sells better bikes than ebay. Or if ur going ebay, try looking for DHZ bikes.
  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Krishy Grand Master

Krishy

Posted
Posted
Welcome back blacky. When can i grab my club polo :)

I have it with me and your welcome to come and grab it anytime you want vanilla boy :)

and my jerry can krishdawg

Same applies for you Jose :D

JMW Mentor

JMW

Posted
Posted
What is the reason for only looking at Duel Solenoid EBC's?

Turbosmart E-Boost 2 would be my choice (infact i bought one a few months to replace my DSBC) but they aren't duel solenoid and they don't need to be.

Electronic%20Boost%20Controllers.jpg

Looked into E boost 2, but at near on $1,000 I'd rather a cheaper option that does exactly the same job.

I don't know much about EBC's, but from my understanding the duel solenoid is better for controlling and holding the boost. Last thing I want is it spiking or dropping off later in the rev range.

Dales right, no need for dual solenoid. Picked up one of the new Eboost Street for the R last year, think it was around $450 not long after release.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Butters
      R34 GTR Speedo Drive , sensor type ?

      By Butters · Posted

      Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...