Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm sure I spotted Loz's old R33 GTSt (maroon, with the Veilside kit and Mines stickers) this morning on Roberts Rd/Rookwood Rd.

Also spotted a silber s2 R33 GTSt leaving the carpark of The Beer Factory in Seven Hills earlier tonight.

spotted a few "hektic" lines in the city last night...

C U BY - qld plates - took off really fast in the rocks and gave a pppssscchht in front of everyone - hektik bro....

and what is it with the city man?

so many tossers, so little bullets! hahah

as I was driving onto the M5 from king georges road heading to the city way.. there were suddenly a few skyline and i think 2 audi and maybe a mini cooper all at once.. there was 2 white skylines a R34 and a R33 (i think) and i think a green/grayish R32 with a massive black spoiler at the back.. was driving past the airport way where it's 70km/h and where there's a speed camera and a cop car pass us all and everyone was driving to the speed limit.. till they turned off...

hmm wonder if any of those guys r on this board.. the white R34 GTT sped past everyone once he got off king georges road.. nice =)

Edited by HolyEvil

lol Chris.

Spotted a really nice white R33 GTST with carbon fibre boot + bonnet.

Nismo stickers and a shopping list.

Plates were MPH-549 or something. I was going to wave but was too busy picking up my jaw.

I think the guy waved/smirked or something.

sitting at terrigal haven on saturday arvo i spotted:

black r32 with 2 different types of wheels.....???.

black r33

white r33

seems like terrigal haven is the place to flaunt the lines!!.

spotted a nice looking black r34 in a driveway on seven hills road infront of the spot I slammed into the car infront of me

:)

just what I need.. more f**king money to spend

ps. wasnt my line thank god

Spotted a purple R32 in St Clair today was some kind of custom purple with gold/honeycomb colour circle spot things all over it! I had to loook twice to make sure I wasnt seeing things but f*ck me it was the ugliest paintjob I have ever seen on a R32 I was embarrased to be driving my 32 behind him incase people thought I was out cruising with it.

Tonight spotted a silver s2 33 on george street with a sau sticker in the passenger side quarter window. also spotted a white 34, black 33 and a few s14s on the freeway heading towards wollongong at about 10.30.

spotted a pink/purple r32 on king georges rd going north at about penturst,

a white R32 GTR near GFS on box rd, sylvania. both of them yesterday.

i see a few others hear and there.

also got a wave from a soarer going down box rd, sylvania, was too slow to give him a wave back.

neva get a chance to wave coz im usually in lala land by the time they go by....lol

Spotted a silver V35 (possibly a 4-door) on Dunmore Street in Pendle Hill about 30mins ago, it was heading towards Wentworthville. I spotted it right near the Bonds factory, I was heading in the opposite direction.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...