Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a shitty vl that i'm just using to drive around and get to work and such, i was thinking of replacing the head

its non turbo so would there be any point in putting on a rb26 head?

is the nissan rb30e better in anyway? (apart from saying nissan on it) :down:

the other day i found out my head had some problem with where the exhaust bolts in on the last couple bolts they were pulling out or something so i figured it would probably be cheaper to just get a new head instead of getting the old holes drilled and re-tapped

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292213-swapping-heads/
Share on other sites

GO BUBBA!!! GO GO GOOOOOOOOOO BUBBA!!! DO IT DO IT DO IT!!!!........................ :devil:

Besides the fact that I know that bubba is going to post in here WITHOUT A DOUBT, the RB30 bottom end as far as I know is the same as the turbo bottom end. The only difference between the turbo motor and the non-turbo motor, was the head itself.

BBBUUUUBBBBBBBBBBBBBBAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

Edited by stormtrooper
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292213-swapping-heads/#findComment-4884168
Share on other sites

would be cheaper to replace with another rb30 head

however if you swap looms, sort out some custom piping, turbos, engine management

maybe injectors pending powah levels

all RB30s are the same with the only difference the oil feed/return tapped or not

depends if its a series 1 or 2 motor, however all 30s from r31s are series 2 so you can say Nissans are better

an RB25 head would be MUCH cheaper then a rb26 head but then you will need to spend extra to replace the FUGLY intake manifold

It does however require a little more modifications, in which the link below will explain in great detail

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ion-t15420.html

The PDF has most the basic info you'd need

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292213-swapping-heads/#findComment-4884281
Share on other sites

would be cheaper to replace with another rb30 head

however if you swap looms, sort out some custom piping, turbos, engine management

maybe injectors pending powah levels

all RB30s are the same with the only difference the oil feed/return tapped or not

depends if its a series 1 or 2 motor, however all 30s from r31s are series 2 so you can say Nissans are better

an RB25 head would be MUCH cheaper then a rb26 head but then you will need to spend extra to replace the FUGLY intake manifold

It does however require a little more modifications, in which the link below will explain in great detail

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ion-t15420.html

The PDF has most the basic info you'd need

+1 :(

Probably even easier to just put an RB20 in there for cheap to begin with, they go reasonably hard in VL's.

Edited by bubba
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292213-swapping-heads/#findComment-4884303
Share on other sites

Horses for courses.. he has a f**ked head on his RB30E.. unless he's willing to embark on a turbo conversion then I think an RB30DE is a waste of time.

RB30 bottom end upgrade in a skyline is a lot easier than a twincam turbo upgrade in a VL.

Start with an RB20DET while you build up the 30DET :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292213-swapping-heads/#findComment-4884331
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
    • okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?
    • Cheers mate. Seems some people get lucky others don't. It looks like the motor was detonating (to be expected if it was overboosting I suppose) as the pistons had a lot of detonation damage, and the bearings were stuffed. The bores were very scoured too, not sure if that's from the pistons or bits of ceramic turbo. By the by now. Have been trying to avoid the rabbit hole too much on the rebuild, and there's been a few hurdles along the way, but with any luck I'll have the car back soon™. Might even pop up a thread then.  
×
×
  • Create New...