Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i heard from someone that if you get EPA'd for the 3rd time, your rego is cancelled and that car can never be rego'd for road use again. sounds bloody stupid but want to know if anyone can shed some light on this?

another thing is blacklisting. i know you can be blacklisted for street racing and such, but as far as being defected goes, can getting several minor defects over a period of time have u blacklisted? or will only major defects do that?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292455-epa-notices-and-police-blacklisting/
Share on other sites

Good ole "i heard from someone"...

Load of shit mate.

If you get 3 EPA's for exhaust noise, you will get pulled in for a FULL EPA check, however they cannot just cancel your rego.

As for "black list", our resident officer who is on the forums has said no such list exists. Im inclined to believe him as he is a good guy :D

As stated before no such thing as "black list" we can put a Field Contact in on your car which will show up everytime the vehicle is checked. Have seen an increasing amount of vehicles with Field Contacts associated due to being around "hoon" area's/illegal drags etc

If you are unlucky enough to get one for that reason if checked you will definitely get a much harder time.

As stated before no such thing as "black list" we can put a Field Contact in on your car which will show up everytime the vehicle is checked. Have seen an increasing amount of vehicles with Field Contacts associated due to being around "hoon" area's/illegal drags etc

If you are unlucky enough to get one for that reason if checked you will definitely get a much harder time.

ah i see. and is being added to that list up to the discretion of the cop who pulls u over? or is it something that happens after an offence is processed in your name?

Good ole "i heard from someone"...

Load of shit mate.

If you get 3 EPA's for exhaust noise, you will get pulled in for a FULL EPA check, however they cannot just cancel your rego.

As for "black list", our resident officer who is on the forums has said no such list exists. Im inclined to believe him as he is a good guy :D

Agreed.

I've had 3 EPA's in one year...no rego cancel.

The best Vicroads do is to suspend your rego till the EPA give the Oakey dokey.

It's purely up to the descretion of the officer. There is no "Stat"associated with them so I couldn't ever see a TMU officer submitting one. I personally don't see a point to doing a field contact for that reason anyway. They are there IMO to associate crooks together, where they hang out and if suspicious persons in an area for high crime etc. Not to say you were hanging around Princes H'wy on a friday night as an example.

im pretty sure i have a Field Contact on my car. would explain why i constantly get pulled over searched every time.

does that mean im a suspicious person? and they always ask stupid questions like

"do you have a job?"

"does your job pay well"

"why are u out so late if your working"

Tets, It sounds like you mave have one on your vehicle. Especially if your car is getting searched each time and getting questioned as you mentioned. That's pretty much what they are for if we suspect someone is dealing as we find empty deal bags in vehicle or suspect person is drug user if syringes or bong located in car we do field contact and then each time person is checked vehicle is searched, person questioned.

Tets, It will be on both the car and you but the car flags straight away. If you were driving another car unless you get pulled over and spoken too and they then do checks you would be fine.

Shoot me a PM with details and I will make some enq's for you if you want

i once had a cop tell me he is putting a field contact on my car... not sure why either... i didnt even do anything wrong.

and havent been pulled over once since... that was 3 months ago... and i drive every day, maybe he was just having a shit day and wanted to scare someone

Edited by Ruffels
i once had a cop tell me he is putting a field contact on my car... not sure why either... i didnt even do anything wrong.

and havent been pulled over once since... that was 3 months ago... and i drive every day, maybe he was just having a shit day and wanted to scare someone

Should have loged a formal complaint after requesting his name, badge number and station details. No wonder people have no respect for the police.

police officers word over some random kid with an import.

end of day u lose.

unless they pull you out of your car and assult u with their batton just let it go and pretend nothing ever happened.

Yeah, but if he's trying to scare you can try and scare him back. Don't have to actually complain, but you can still ask for name, number and station.

I generally wouldn't advise to ask officer's name, badge number etc. If I get asked that I always give it to them on the Penalty notice, Summons, NOU that I would issue them.

Why would you advise against asking for details that an officer must legally give when requested?

When requested, a police officer MUST tell you their name, identification number, name of the police station where they work and their rank. If asked for these details in writing, a police officer MUST give these details in writing. Failure to provide these details is an offence and should be followed up with a written complaint.

instead of scaring u and abusing their power to make your day shittie

defect with minor stuff to fix.

they will throw every fine they can think of.

option 1

defect + let u go.

option 2

defect + car grounded + fine for defect + fine for to low + epa + search your whole car for anything that can be named as a weapon + tow truck fee + taxi/making someone else pick u up.

the list goes on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...