Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I just got my car dyno tuned by Gavin Woods, he's an absolute champion.

Car is currently putting out 315hp at 0.9 bar.

Specs are:

1993 RB25DET

Apexi PowerFC

Bosch 040 Pump, Tomei Fuel Reg, Stock Injectors

KKR560 Turbo, front mount, stock AFM, Greddy Profec B Spec II

He said he could only run 0.9 bar of boost as the AFM was maxxed out, and injectors were at 92% and he doesn't like going above 90%

So... I'm gonna save up for injectors and an afm, and had a few questions....

1) What injectors and AFM would you recommend? I'm not planning on eventually running any crazy power, just wanting to fix whatever's "holding back" the engine :D

2) how much boost would you run on a stock engine? (140,000km) The turbo seems as though it would be happy to run 20psi+ but i'm guessing the engine wouldn't last

3) Are there any other bits I would need or should get? EG: will new afm need an adapter for the existing pod filter or wiring in a new loom, or any other bits that should be changed at the same time?

4) Where should i get these bits from?

Thanks guys :P

Isaac

Edited by islade

i pretty much have the perfect information on injectors atm in my post just below yours :D

and the afm is covered heaps here already, get a z32 afm.

and for how much boost, lol thats covered alot to..

ive learnt to use the search bar since my first post otherwise u look like a complete tool.

Edited by Stealthynsa

1. Z32, Nismo 555's

2. Who knows, more about the tune than anything.

3/4. Nengun, greenline, any of the forum traders as well. AFM will be larger, might need a new adapter.

Nasty turbo though the 560 :D

Also, once you put in larger injectors, put the factory fuel reg back on, you do not need the Tomei one.

Thanks for the advice guys,

I have read either 440cc or 480cc for S15 injectors, guess I gotta do more research :banana:

What's the reason for returning to stock FPR if i get bigger injectors? I realise I may not need the additional pressure, but can't it just be turned back down?

Isaac

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...