Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

i have a r32 GTS4 rb20det 5spd. had it for last 4 years and built it from stock to what it is now.

i have been running it rwd for the last 3 years, cause i lost interest in 4wd. when i bought it i thought it would be fun to run 4wd and be able to switch to rwd with a pull of a fuse/switch. anyways. not the real problem at hand.

my clutch is starting to slip, so i thought, instead of just replacing the clutch, rip out the front 4wd gear, diff, driveshafts, etc. and go rwd, allowing me to save weight and sell the front diff and driveshafts.

ive tried selling my car for the last year, no one seems interested, and just get something already rwd. so i though may aswell keep it...

i just wanna know, if anyone else does know, what's involved in rwd'ing the car.

1. is it just a matter of getting a gtst sump and ripping the other stuff out or what?

2. what clutch would i need to be looking for. rb20det gtst or rb20det gts4/gtr style?

cheers in advance,

Billy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293424-r32-gts4-to-rwd/
Share on other sites

You are aware that the GTS4 runs rwd 90% of the time, only engaging awd when necessary?

As far as I am aware, the sumps are not interchangeable between RWD / AWD models. The suspension probably needs to be replaced, because a GTSt doesn't require a hub that takes a driveshaft. You will need to replace the gearbox with a rwd version. You will need to remove all the ATTESSA gear (if you are into saving weight).

The clutch you need is probably universal to the RB20DET engine itself, not to a GTSt / GTS4.

You will likely have problems selling just a front diff - whoever buys it will then need to source a rear diff with the same ratios.

Maybe no-one is interested in buying the car because the AWD doesn't work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293424-r32-gts4-to-rwd/#findComment-4899030
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...