Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yea its steel wheeled.

I know spec sheet says 206kw but I'm pretty sure thats engine kw. No idea why it was 165awkw but it was running 0.65bar boost. Maybe the wastegate is dodgy cause the tuner couldnt get it to hold boost after 1.15bar, hence the 255awkw... =(

255 is respectable enough but the start point seems low. But it's hard to say what is 'normal' with these cars. How many are truly original......

Wo.. gtr_man instead of sav_man. Haha

Nick: yea I agree it'll vary but another point is the boost level might be the reason as well... anyway I'm not too bothered by it after the tune. Seriously before tuning, I'm not very impressed by it (mainly due to the lag) but after tuning, it makes a whole lot difference.

decat you will notice it straight up, even from a high flowing cat to decat u will notice it, wont give you more outright power but will me smoother and faster response down low.

lot of ppl think if it dosnt make more power its not worth it but that 10hp up the top is nothing its the extra 10hp down low you notice. recomend it decat but if you have a white car be prepaired to be clening the stains of your rear bar, and getting high with you windows down at 100kph

btw Tony, on a N/A car you do need a certain amount of backpressure otherwise you start robbing power at low RPM (found this out when I owned a V8, single 2.5 gave a better power range than twin, and tri y extractors outperformed 4 into 1 until up in the revs) in a turbo car your turbo is the restriction, and you want to get rid of the used gas as efficiently as possible

btw Tony, on a N/A car you do need a certain amount of backpressure otherwise you start robbing power at low RPM (found this out when I owned a V8, single 2.5 gave a better power range than twin, and tri y extractors outperformed 4 into 1 until up in the revs) in a turbo car your turbo is the restriction, and you want to get rid of the used gas as efficiently as possible

It will be for some other reason.

Was it a fuel injected V8 or a carburettor?

Even if it was fuel injected I bet you were running lean and needed a re-tune. The problem is the inadequacy of your fuel delivery rather than to do with the way a piston engine works.

Do F1 or Nascar run mufflers? Topfuel?

fuel injected, and the point I'm making is about low down - mid range power, response and torque, which isn't really applicable to a race car :P

Look pal you need a tune is all and maybe an after market ECU. :thumbsup:

...ain't a tuned race car around that runs a 'zaust system for 'back pressure'.

cause I'm lazy, check out the Scavenging part of this wiki article http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manifold_(aut...ve_engineering) , this is what I was getting at.

I don't own a V8 anymore so I don't need to worry about such things. I've had people try and say that I was losing power when I had a pipe only exhaust or that I was going to wreck my turbo somehow, but since the turbo itself is the main exhaust restriction, I don't see how either is possible.

I got faster spool when i changed stock cat for 200 cell metal cat. Ideally you want the ID of the cat flanges to the same ID as the exhaust flanges to keep it smooth. As stated you should be able to get a bolt in with the correctly oriented flanges.

IIRC you can wind in a bit more timing when you free up the exhaust as there's less exhaust contamination.

DECATs are for ppl who piss in the street and throw ciggie buts out the windows... dont me one of those ppl

For turbo cars you want as little back pressure as possible after the turbine - it makes the turbo work better - think about what a turbine does and how it does it. Comparisons with NA cars are not useful.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...